Anything else that needs (?) logging, but that doesn't deserve a page
of its own, is here.
Friday, December 15, 2000
I hung up a string of Christmas lights in the bedroom, draped from
pre-existing plant hooks and the ceiling fan. Wedding decor, very
festive! They're intended to welcome my bride home tomorrow. They're
tapped into the Variac that runs the lamp on the headboard, so they
can be dimmed too.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
We got maybe 2' of snow yesterday and today. Fortunately it was
powder, so the power is generally on around here, though the roads are
largely impassible—especially ours. We're not going anywhere
soon. I spent the day trying to get the $75 Gilson snowblower I got
at Goodwill years ago running again. It keeps stripping the bronze
gear in the auger drive. Said gears were once a relatively
inexpensive service part, as they were sacrificial, but are long
unavailable at a decent price. (They want $70 for mine.) I've been
trying to make new teeth on it with the acetylene torch and a brazing
rod. I made new bumps, then cut, filed, and sanded tooth profiles on
it. Then I got it all put back together, especially that wretched
drive belt that's so hard to fit. I had to weld a crack that was
starting in the fan chamber.
It fired up fairly easily considering it hadn't run in several years,
a little ether works wonders. I fed it to the snow, and I got maybe a
couple of feet in before the gear stripped again. Crap. All that
work for nothing. The 5 HP Briggs motor runs very well,
it would even idle nice and slowly. I should have taken the $50 I was
offered for it when I took the thing in to see about a new gear a few
years ago. (They wanted the motor. That place is out of business
now, or I'd be trying to take their offer. Snowblowers are going for
a premium right now, and I bet parts on the hoof to fix one would be
welcome too.) I have spent countless hours trying to repair that
gearbox, but I think I have to give up now. If I had a milling
machine I could try to make a proper new gear, but failing that I
think we're done.
In lieu of using the machinery I did a bunch of shoveling. We figured
out why the dog wasn't sleeping in its Dogloo, the entrance was
completely blocked by snow! We've had maybe half the usual annual
snowfall here in the last day, it's record-setting. (But they've only
been tracking it since 1889 or so.)
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
The Fluke IR probe has been flakey for some time now, and it wasn't
the battery. I opened it up to have a look. I found a solder whisker
shorting across the output terminals, I think that could explain its
sensitivity to the position of the battery and its wiring. I cleaned
off the whisker with a soldering iron, set the probe to Centigrade,
and put it all back together. The probe end is pretty elaborate. It
looks like it might have an emitter and a sensor, and there's a large
coil as part of the head assembly.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Some time ago I bought a Harbor Breeze ceiling fan at Goodwill, $15
with lights, and today I started installing it in the gazebo that's
out on the new deck. Everything was there except the mounting bracket
that the rod's ball hangs in, but of course it was all originally
intended to screw to a ceiling box and not into the single threaded
nut that's what's in the gazebo. Enter the acetylene torch and the
MIG welder. Using the dead spring and shackle bolts from the boat trailer rebuild, I made an "X" that lined up
with the screw holes in the shroud. I welded a dead metric capscrew
(originally from the 560 SEL's suspension pump)
that matched the gazebo's threads to the center of the "X". I welded
nuts to the X to take the screws through the shroud. I then hung a
circular ring (formed from another spring bolt) from a basket of old
framing nails such that the fan's hanger rod was happy. Another nail
welded in place gave it a guide to mate with the notch in the ball so
it wouldn't spin in the socket. After bending and forming I got it
all to fit together, then I hung the bracket from the gazebo. I
lashed each of the legs of the "X" to the gazebo frame to catch the
fan if the single bolt should ever break loose. I then assembled the
fan and hung it from the new mount, which was uneventful. For wiring
I dragged an old computer extension cord out of the junk pile, it was
black and quite long. One end was missing, so I wire-nutted that to
the fan. The other end I ran down the gazebo's metalwork to nearby
outlet, lashing it in place with black twist ties, and plugged it in
using a surplus computer power cord. (This extra joint is placed
where it is easy to reach, for enabling and disabling the fan.) Two
40 W candelabra-base bulbs completed the ensemble.
It all works well, but I think the fan needs a tiny bit more space
above it to get better airflow. I'll either extend the rod or the
basketwork at some point, I think I can add about 6" before it
gets low enough to be distressing.
It was slightly off balance, but the plastic spring clip used for
balancing worked well. It took some time to find the right place, but
it seems to have cured it. I replaced it with a stick-on weight from
the fan balancing kit.
[I later found the missing bracket in the trunk of the car I'd brought
the fan home in. Oops.]
Thursday, August 12, 2010
My Norelco Speedshaver (double-header) was crapping out again.
NORTH AMERICAN PHILIPS CO. INC.
110V-6W-AC-DC ≅ 20'
This was bought for my paternal grandfather in 1959 when he was in the
hospital just before he died. He never really used it, and I got it
at puberty. It's been a bit of a trial to keep it running all these
years, about 35 years of daily use, but it's a challenge I sometimes
I disassembled it (four screws, two of them under plastic plugs in the
whisker chamber) and put the dirty non-electric stuff in the
ultrasonic cleaner, it was desperately in need of this. The brushes
are worn down again, which is what is keeping it from running right.
BTDT. I need 2.5×4 mm brushes, about 10 mm long.
They're hard to find, I used to scavenge them out of other same-model
thrift shop shavers, but that supply dried up years ago. I'll
probably have to file something else down.
After work I went to the hardware store (Argonne & Montgomery, the
one I work next to no longer carries brushes) and bought a big brush
(1×5/8×5/16") that should be able to be cut down into
several of these. About $5. We'll see how it goes.
Friday, August 13, 2010
I used the Delta scroll saw to cut two brushes from the face of the
big brush, it came out that I got two side-by-side from one
2.5 mm slice off the face. Perfect. But they're too long as it
turns out, so I cut one in half and used it, leaving one spare. I
then reassembled the shaver, using 70W synthetic gear oil as
lubricant, and tried it out. Works fine again. The brush makings
will go into the shaver's case under the sink.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Went to Olga's (a co-worker's) property north of Deer Park and picked up
some downed aspen (or birch). We took the car trailer. About 2
cords' worth, and largely dry already. Was a very nice day for such
activity, the family had a good time I think. This should ensure that
we have enough wood for this Winter.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Jill's private oboe student showed up with a new Accent oboe. The
joints 'caught' going together the last little bit, and were very
difficult to break apart. This was of concern to all. I measured the
tenon and socket and determined that the inside part of the tenon and
the outside part of the socket were interfering as the joint seated
home. (The corked center is turned down a bit, and can't be at
fault.) I filed the outer 1/8" of the socket using a fine riffler,
gently and with several passes, to loosen the fit slightly. That
seems to have done the trick. I tried to err on the side of not
enough, we can always take off a bit more later. This oboe was (near
as we can tell) the OB790G, a $2,000 horn that's made in East Germany,
out of Buffet's Greenline material. It's on indefinite loan from her
uncle, who has some connection with some school somewhere. (It is
possible that it wasn't the G model as they appear to have a W suffix
in their product line that stands for wood, which means there may be a
suffix-less number for regular plastic, but their web site only has
two G models listed for oboes. The horn itself didn't have a
recognizable model number on it, so I'm not really sure. I haven't
handled any Greenline instruments personally, so I don't have that to
compare to. It was obviously plastickey, with a brushed grain
texture. If it were not Greenline I'd expect it to cost somewhat
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
We bought an entertainment center at the thrift shop. Not quite the
styling we were looking for, but not too bad. (Dark oak and leaded
glass.) It's just the right size, anyway. We've been looking for
awhile, and finding nothing that was just right. (Cherry finish,
Mission styling, tall.) If we're going to compromise anyway, a used
(inexpensive) unit is much more palatable than a new one. It's about
4' high, and 5' wide, so it's got a very nice big space on top for a
medium-large flat panel display. All the AV equipment will fit easily
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Got the truck emptied out and swept, and unhooked from the car
trailer, so Jill picked up the entertainment center. Got the
neighbors (K's) to help carry it up the stairs and in, it was more
than Jill and I could handle by ourselves.
Friday, September 3, 2010
Installed the A/V equipment in the new entertainment center. The back
is open and it's on wheels, so it was fairly straightforward to get
everything hooked up and then rolled back into its niche. There was
about an inch on each side to the walls.
Saturday, September 4, 2010
I adjusted and tidied up the door hardware. The TV hole hinges are
nice German ones, they are screw-adjustable for positioning. I used a
chisel to remove the excess polyurethane glue where somebody had
repaired a door that got broken. The unit is not top-of-the-line
furniture, but it's definitely a step or two up from the bottom.
I finished repairing the collapsed stacks in the wood pavilion. Ready
to begin loading in the new wood, once I think it'll stop drying out
in the windrows.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
I replaced one of the downstairs 'hallway' globe lamps today. It's
been in daily use since I bought the house in 1993, and who knows for
how long before that. Impressive. Sylvania, 60 W 130 V.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Today they finished up the driveway revamp. (All I did was pay for
it.) It came out to about $5100, which is more than I'd expected.
Imagine that. There was a lot of digging and grading
required, though. It's nearly 1' deep in places, asphalt chunks
(cobble) topped with 100 tons of recycled asphalt. It's black, and
tamps down well.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
First fire of the home heating season. I'm surprised she hadn't
started already. (She's less tolerant of cool interior temperatures
than I am.)
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Got all the firewood finally loaded into the wood pavilion. About ten full stacks,
total, and the shed's nearly full. With great effort one could maybe
get twelve full stacks into it, but that would be difficult, and a bit
dangerous. We started with 1.5 stacks leftover from last year, and
had three long rows drying outside. They extended from about the end
of the terrace by the steps to the center of the middle garage. Will
need to get about that much each year, I'd say.
The wood outside got wet, in spite of the tarp. (It was kind of
leaky.) I'll need to get started loading it into the shed earlier
next time. I'd left it outside to take advantage of the usual
September weather, but it got wet at the end, and October was also
wet, and I lacked time. The extra drying time was, I'm sure, more
than offset by the water that got onto and into the wood; some of it
is quite wet.
If I could just get ahead of the game enough to get really
dry firewood to burn, I'd probably need less per year. Less work,
total, if I can just get on top of the chore and stay there. Yeah,
Thursday, November 18, 2010
First snow. 1" or so.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
I'd been wanting to put shelves in the garage over the door into the
house since I bought the place, as that spot over its stairwell was
just this vast unusable cobweb collector. Today I finally did
something about it. Yesterday I'd bought some metal shelf brackets,
the cheap zigzag ones, and I put them up today. I used the leftover
plywood from the rickety corner storage shelf I'd torn down recently
(and replaced with a Gorilla Rack) for the shelves. To access the
shelves I built a hinged platform out of the plywood and some scrap
2×4's. It drops down from against the wall, bridging the
stairwell to the utility room and giving easy access to the new
shelves. That'll help a lot.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
0 °F and a foot or so of snow on the ground, it sure would be
nice to have the snowblower working! Monday I'd gotten a start on it,
but there was a lot more to do. Today I took apart the gearbox and
dug out all the brass-filled grease. I put the gearbox back together
with the new gear in place and reinstalled it into the machine, with a
fresh load of grease, but it didn't really want to start after that.
It was really cold, which didn't help, nor did the very stale gas in
the tank. I filled the tank with fresher fuel and sprayed some
starting ether into it to juice it up, then sprayed some into the
spark plug hole. I also used the propane torch to heat the head. I
finally got it firing, roughly, but it never really wanted to take
off, and had no power. I used most of a can of starting ether getting
and keeping it running until it was finally somewhat self-sustaining.
It backfired once and caught the starting fluid on fire, which was a
bit of a thrill considering that it was the exterior of the fuel tank
that was burning. Powder snow works as a fire extinguisher, though
you have to use a lot of it! Unfortunately you've then got
semi-melted snow packed into and refreezing in the works. It
was just pure joy all around, and then I ran out of time. Still no
idea whether or not the thing will work yet.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
I got the snowblower started again and noticed that I was again
smoking the belt. It's very hard to get the auger assembly in so that
the belt brake is in the right place. I figured out that the trick
is two screwdrivers: one to hold the brake 'off', and a
larger one slipped across the transmission pulley face to tip the
brake away from the drum. Once you do that it's possible to get the
belt installed in the right place fairly easily. I then tried it out.
It threw snow, but was anemic. After awhile it started running fairly
well, but was still not clearing well, and I eventually noticed that
the augers were on backwards! They were pushing the snow away
from the mouth of the blower. That explained a lot. So I got to take
it apart again, and put the augers on the right way around.
The engine seemed 'slow', so I found that I could bend the far side
support of the throttle spring to make the spring tighter, which
raised the RPM. I then adjusted the mixture and idle screws for best
effect. Finally this thing was starting to throw some snow!
I cleared the driveway and as much of the walkway and parking pad that
I could, given that there were cars on the way and a lot of
tromped-down icy paths. Near the end of the job I managed to catch a
piece of hidden Trex in the augers, which beat them to pieces.
Literally. I got out the BFH's and two big crescent wrenches and bent
things back into shape, then welded the breaks back together. Looks
less pretty than it did, but seems to work. I then finished the job.
At the end the muffler fell off, the screws had backed out. (I only
recovered one of the two, it's possible that one had been gone for
some time.) It didn't run right when it was breathing its own
exhaust. I shoveled the remainder, and then moved on to deep-frying
the turkey. Clearing the snow was to allow our guests to arrive
Friday, December 10, 2010
Broke into the third stack of firewood (of ten) this morning. (The
first true full-height stack, but I estimate that we've used the
equivalent of one full-height and one short stack to this point.)
Since we started burning on October 12 that's
about one stack per month; we've had some cold weather and, due to
guests, a couple of weeks of heating the downstairs too. Not bad! On
the other hand we didn't need to heat much at first, and it took
nearly the first month to get all the wood into the shed to
quantify, so that first month might not actually count much. At
closer to two stacks per month I'm less happy, but we should
still be fine.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
The last of the outside Christmas decorations is up. A few days ago
at the thrift shop I found a set of Musical Christmas
Bells, model MB9-C from 1989. (Hong Kong's Capricorn
Electronics, Made in China.) $2. These are real brass bells, nine of
them in a string, with a small controller box powered by a 12 V
wall wart that drives the solenoid clappers in the bells. What
distinguishes these from the usual schlock is that the twelve carol
arrangements are rather nicely done, much like you might hear a
(small!) bell choir perform. (I've seen a lot of junk since then with
molded plastic bells with speakers in them, complete with a bad light
show and greeting-card sound quality. Ugh.
These were a class act, although they are a bit on the
fragile side—the clappers often need adjusting after they're
handled.) These seem to have entirely disappeared from the
marketplace. I did see one set of these, the exact same set, on eBay
for $75. (A 12-bell set claimed that the original price sticker was
I remember being very taken with these when they came out, enough so
that I'd bought a set as a gift for my parents even though they were
kind of expensive for a Christmas decoration. ($50? More?) They'd
hung them out in the utility room in a garland over the doorway to the
garage. The bells sounded lovely—the first few times 'round!
But it gets old fast. At least they still looked good even when
unplugged. When I bought these Jill was extremely emphatic that they
were not to go anywhere inside. Hey, honey, trust me. If
she would have asked, or even listened, I would have told her what I
I liked the bells, a lot, but a small dose is sufficient. At my
parents' they were far too close to the action. Eventually
someone would step out of the kitchen in desperation and yank the plug
on the things. Sometimes to applause. My idea was to hang
them outside, out where you park. When party guests arrive
they can be captivated by the bells for the little bit of time they're
willing to stand outside in the cold listening, but once inside
they're well away from the racket. Less is more. This morning I hung
them out under the eave of the new garage; the bells aren't rated for
outdoor duty but they should be well protected there. After adjusting
the clappers (again!) they cycled through their tunes. They sounded
very nice, I think Jill might not even mind them there. Daniel
thought that they were kind of cool, too.
Turns out my dad threw away their set of bells, they'd stopped working
and after mom died there was no champion there to protect them. I bet
I could have fixed them, but he was sick of the things. (I'd have liked
them for spares...)
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Yesterday I bought another flange bolt at the hardware store ($1.40,
rapacious!), today I reinstalled the muffler on the snowblower. I had
to remove three head bolts to get the shroud off so that I could reach
the bolt heads. I used a bit of anti-sieze on the muffler bolts.
Monday, December 20, 2010
About 3" of snow today. I fired up the snowblower (second pull,
with ether) and it was working pretty well, but I was catching a lot
of gravel. I cleared the pad and then started down the driveway. Not
even all the way to the end it started making scraping noises and
throwing sparks. One of the welds had broken on one of the fan
blades, and it had thrown against the throat and was scraping away. I
was short of time, and so ran it back and parked it. I think it'll be
easy to weld back. I also lost a pivot screw on the choke lever.
Sunday, January 2, 2011
We got about a foot of snow while we were gone. Today I fixed up the
snowblower again: welded the fan blades, replaced the missing choke
screw, and put back the original muffler bolt, which fell out of a
crevice in the engine where it had been hiding. I also set down the
skid plates, to try to avoid the gravel. All back together I then
cleared the driveway as best I could, but because it had been driven
on substantially since the snowfall it wasn't easy, nor well done.
Still, it beats a shovel. Nothing bad happened this time, for a
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
Broke into the fourth stack of firewood (of ten) this morning.
Another full-height one. (You have to crack the next stack before you
finish the one in front of it, because they're too tall to reach the
top unless you stand on the depleted stack's remnants.)
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
More snowblower. The auger seemed to stall at times, I don't know if
it's the seriously-damaged belt slipping, or if it's the gearbox
Friday, February 4, 2011
Broke into the fifth stack of firewood (of ten) this morning.
Another full-height one. About three weeks per stack burn rate?
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Started on next stack of firewood today, #6 of 10, a short one. We
were away (Disneyland) for most of a week last month, but there were
a couple of weeks of arctic blast too so it balances out. The bulk of
the wood in the last stack was partially-rotted but dry fir. A pain
to handle, and buggy, but it heated well.
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Broke into the next stack of firewood today, #7 of 10, a tall one.
Saturday, April 9, 2011
Picked up the first firewood for next year, filled the pickup and the
car trailer with some of a 100-year-old maple the relatives in Walla
Walla were forced to cut down. (It was starting to threaten the
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Today I noticed that we've finally lost a light bulb in the strand of
Christmas lights I'd hastily hung as temporary
welcoming wedding decor. Well, we liked the effect so after more than
ten years of daily use we finally lost a bulb. Running on a Variac
dimmer really helps extend incandescent bulb life! (They're usually
on all night at a very low level, as a nightlight. When they [and
the reading light] are on at a higher level it's usually about 80% or
so, which I've found provides adequate light yet really extends the
life of the 100 W bulb in the reading light.)
Sunday, June 5, 2011
The water pump has been short-cycling for quite some time now, and the
weather was finally nice enough to encourage tackling such
non-emergency projects. I got out the air hose and coupled it to the
pressure tank, and refilled it with air. This needs to be done a time
or two per year, now. (It's an old-style non-bladder tank, and when
the water system was redone to have a cistern the old air-injection
valve in the well no longer did its job. [It was later removed
altogether when the original well pump went bad and was replaced,
along with several sticks of corroded well pipe.]) If/when the tank
is replaced with a bladder type this job should go away. OTOH,
bladder tanks don't last as long as the old style.
Details: I fire up the oilless air compressor and run hoses out to the
wellhouse. (Some are kept in the wellhouse, others are not.) I turn
off the pumps and open the yard hydrant to remove water pressure.
Once the pressure is down to a dribble I remove the screw-in Schrader
air valve on the pressure switch pipe and replace it (9/16" wrench)
with a fitting that mates with the air hoses, and then jam the air
hose on. (You get a bit wet at this step, it's nice to have a warm
day for the operation.) Once air starts coming out the yard hydrant I
reverse the procedure and fire up the pressure pump again, and put
everything back away 'til next time.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
We have a lemonade dispensing tub in our party supplies, a Tablecraft
953, which got badly cracked while stored outside over the winter. I
used a Mini-weld III (Urethane Supply Company) airless plastic welder
that I got at the thrift shop, using the closest match rod that was in
the kit. (The kit's current equivalent seems to sell for about $200,
I got this one for $15.) It seems to work! I repaired the cracks in
the tub and filled it with water to see if it leaked. It didn't.
Sunday, June 26, 2011
My Dad's going to Ireland this Fall and we were discussing small
tripods. Recently I ran across a vintage Kalimar PE-8 tripod, which
is intriguingly small and was only $4. It's also all metal, except
for the plastic knob on the operating handle, yet still light. It,
however, was missing the camera screw. It will extend to about 4' in
height, with the geared center post extended. It's quite flimsy at
full extension, but at minimum extension (for use on a table) it is
quite nice. I thought it would make a nice gift, if I can replace the
I found a nice Allen capscrew with knurled sides in the junk box, and
re-threaded it 1/4-20, which is a close-enough match to the
camera-standard 1/4-20 Whitworth thread. I disassembled the tripod
head and drilled and threaded the hole in the top of the tripod, then
ground off the screw's neck threads so that it wouldn't grab in the
top once the screw was in. I also had to grind the length down some
so it wouldn't bottom in the test camera. Due to its length the
capscrew cannot be removed from the head except through a hole in the
disassembled head, so it won't go anywhere. The threads are a bit of
a mess, and the knurled head is too small, but I think it'll work for
whenever it's needed. It looks nice enough, anyway.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
The wind took out the lemonade tank again. While I was fixing a piece of Jill's 560 SL I fixed the tank again. I must
learn to be more careful stowing it, I doubt it's got much life left
in it at this point!
Thursday, July 14, 2011
A new sprinkler system has been commercially installed with the new
lawn (and landscaping). They reused what was reusable of my original
installation, which had been ruined when the West Wing was
constructed. (The dug-up original control cable is intact on the
surface of the dirt along the west wall, 'til about midway. The
apparently-intact cable from the valve box surfaced near the
north-side window of the music room. They spliced in a new piece of
cable between these points, the northern splice is in an underground
box beneath the window.) All worked when operated manually, but there
were some problems when I turned on the timer. Three circuits (of
six) were inoperative:
- Circuit #2, the red (#2) wire, was cut. Testing at the two cable
splices determined that it was cut somewhere under the dirt
between the valve box and where the (dug-up, snagged) wire
surfaced at the northern edge of the West Wing. Replaced with the
spare White (#9) wire in the cable.
- Circuit #3, the orange (#3) wire, had broken off its valve body
again due to all the handling required by manual valve operation
during the new installation. I scraped and soldered it back on as
best I could. (Again, and for probably the last time.)
- Circuit #5, the green (#5) wire, also was cut. Same deal as #2,
and the fix was the same. Replaced with the spare Gray (#8) wire
in the cable.
We're down to only one spare wire (#7, purple) in the cable! Given
that there are two broken wires it is probable that the waterproof
sheath is open underground, and not too unlikely that the inner
insulation is compromised on currently-working wires. We shall see!
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
The well ran dry this morning. The new-lawn watering schedule uses
6× the amount of water as normal. (1 hour
[15 minutes/circuit] every other day versus 20 minutes
[5 minutes/circuit] every two hours from 8:30 AM
to 6:30 PM, for a total of 2 hours every day.)
There's no way we have enough water during Summer to put in new grass.
Which is why we called the landscaping company two months
ago, during our long wet Spring. They waited 'til it got hot before
they showed up, the jerks. We're probably going to have to let it die
and re-seed in the Fall. Just another dissatisfaction to add to the
(already rather long) list regarding this job.
I have completely stopped the watering system, I want to see how long
it takes until the cistern is replenished. (Jill has also suspended
laundry operations.) I should be able to maintain the non-lawn
watering schedule, but I'd like more baseline information.
Friday, July 22, 2011
Even with the watering system shut off it has taken 'til this morning
for the cistern to refill completely. (I've been checking twice
daily.) That is not good!
Monday, September 26, 2011
The Kenmore dryer (Model 110.76930100, Serial F83818628) has been
making dire noises again for awhile, today I pulled it apart. The
last time it was one of the two drum support rollers. As it is this
time! (The other one, I hope, but I no longer remember. The dead
roller was the one on the cantilevered pin over the motor, not the one
with a support bracket on the other side.) Anyway, as usual I took it
apart too far, before I figured out what I should have done. In fact
for this kind of thing there's no necessity even to pull it out from
the wall. The top pries up after removing two Philips screws in the
screen well. Two more screws inside the top front and the face lifts
off, after you remove the safety switch wires to the door. You then
reach under the drum and disengage the belt from the motor, then the
drum comes out the front. From there you can reach everything. The
rollers are held on their posts with triangular nylon retaining clips,
which can be pried open, gently. The failing roller's center was
hogged out almost completely, there's a lot of debris sprayed around.
One of the two door support ropes is also broken, I'll try to see if I
can replace that too.
I hit the online parts sources, and found that Sears' own site was
kind of a pain. The prices weren't that great, either. PartSelect
was faster to navigate, and less money. One irritation is that
through them the rollers are only sold in 2-packs. Total $33,
shipped, for two rollers and a door cable.
Thursday, September 29, 2011
The dryer parts came yesterday, today I installed them. (The wheels
are FSP, labeled "Support", numbered 349241T code 110206, made in US.
Also marked 4391722 Rev. C, TM Whirlpool.) I only replaced the one
wheel, but I did clean and grease both axle pins. (Axle grease,
naturally.) The spare wheel is taped inside the cabinet for next
time. I had a close look, and the dead wheel is also labeled FSP, so
I guess it's the replacement from last time. The door cable (#230131)
was easy to replace, just clip it in and hook up the spring.
Reassembly was mostly uneventful, and it again works quietly. I did
get the belt cocked off of its idler roller the first time, but it
didn't sound or track right and it was easily put right. I don't
think any damage was done to the belt, but the belt is old and will
need replacement eventually.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Brought back another truck/trailer load of maple from Walla Walla.
The trip was uneventful. (Also brought back a nasty heirloom couch,
the kind that folds down into a bed. Said couch is what's to go under
the downstairs TV, up against the wall. Not really what I'd expected!
It was pretty musty, I left it un-tarped in the hopes that three hours
in the wind would do it some good.) Daniel and I unloaded the trailer
into the shed, the stackable stuff towards the back, the jumble
towards the front. There's still some unsplit rounds on the trailer,
and the truck's still loaded with jumble.
Thursday, October 13, 2011
I split the last of the unsplit firewood and stacked it in the shed.
We're up to 6.5 stacks, a bit light. But we have a huge jumble of odd
blocks and chunks to throw in front of the stacks, both what's in the
truck and the pile from the last trip. I think we'll be OK for the
winter, we just need to get it all inside the shed.
Friday, October 14, 2011
Jill and her friend Carolyn unloaded the truck into the shed while I
was at work. All that's left is to move the jumble pile into the shed
Sunday, October 16, 2011
The last of the firewood is in the shed. I finished the seventh stack
with the more stackable pieces from what came off the truck, then
Daniel and I moved the jumble pile inside. It's easily two more full
stacks' worth, so we can safely say we've got nine stacks. Ten is all
we need in a winter, if we heat pretty exclusively with wood, and if
conditions are good and the maple is dry enough it should stretch
further, or if we end up using the furnace more. We shall see!
Saturday, November 5, 2011
It's been getting cold and I've been tidying up. I found a "Freeze
Cap" brand faucet
cover I'd gotten at the thrift shop. I installed it on the faucet
behind the house. It's intriguing because you screw a plastic
retaining ring to the wall and a styrofoam-lined plastic cap bayonets
to the ring. It's easy and quick to install and remove, and the
plastic outer shell is much more durable than the usual raw styrofoam.
The box it came in was styled like the 1970's, and was a bit tired,
but the cap was in perfect shape. It probably sat around a lot of
years. When was the last time you found what was essentially a cheap
piece of plastic crap that was made in the USA and not China? Looks
like they're still available online,
about $9. (No mention of manufacturing location.) I'd like one for
the front faucet too, but because it's a rock wall and the faucet
sticks out further than it ought to (since the brick was replaced
with a rock veneer) I don't think it'll work.
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Snow on the ground this morning for the first time. It's been pretty
cold for nearly a month now, especially the last couple of weeks, and
we've been starting to burn wood. I suppose it will begin in earnest
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
I bought a Snap-On branded reel trouble light at the liquidation
outlet. The build quality looked decent, though this is a whored
badge job and doesn't carry the usual Snap-On lifetime warrantee.
Costco once carried these, it seems. The notable thing about this one
is that the fluorescent light housing was broken in half! Snapped
clean in half at the neck and the wires yanked out of the bulb socket,
however it looked repairable. I overpaid, $30, but it really did look
like it might be a nice light once repaired, and the cord reel was
metal and looked sturdy. I've wanted a second reel light for the new
garage for some time, to match (sort-of) the one I've had in the old
garage for years. (I later found that those lights were on clearance
for $20 at Costco at one point, so I really did overpay!)
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
I tested the Snap-On light's cord, it had power, so I took apart the
broken light and began gluing it back together. I used JB Weld
epoxy and some spring clamps to hold the pieces in position while the
glue cured. There wouldn't be any real strength to this repair at
this point, but it's a start. I took particular care to make sure no
glue got into the mating flanges of the housing halves where it would
interfere with reassembly.
Thursday, December 1, 2011
I took the Snap-On light's glued housing and fashioned some metal
spring clips (out of an old MB windshield wiper blade spine, they look
a little like box staples) that pinched the housing pieces back
together, bridging the glued breaks. These are very stiff and bite
into plastic bosses in the moldings. I then used JB Weld epoxy
to pot these six clips in position. This should provide some strength
to the repair. I also took apart the fluorescent light socket,
removing the broken spring clip connections to the bulb. I soldered
those back together and put the socket back together, then tested the
loose light guts. Worked great. We're almost there!
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Now that the glue had cured enough to survive handling I reassembled
the Snap-On trouble light. It went together easily, and worked. I
put it out in the garage and hung it near the door, so it could also
be used on a car parked outside that bay. At that point I found,
though, that the cord reel is intermittent and only supplies power in
some positions. Great. I left the light on for a couple of days to
finish the glue cure, since it was so cold outside. (Below freezing.)
The light is a nice one, anyway, and will also work on the end of any
regular single-outlet extension cord.
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
I used the repaired trouble light to see what I was doing out in the
cold and dark on the Chicken Wagon. (On the
end of an extension cord, its troublesome reel cord doesn't reach to
where the car is normally parked.) Worked great.
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
We finally finished burning the jumble pile and started on the first
real stack of firewood. If we count the jumble as two stacks' worth,
this makes number three (of nine). Not a bad start, though
temperatures have been down into the teens lately.
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Bought an Ariens ST824 snowblower at auction today,
from a row of nine consigned from some institution or another. $150.
Model 924050, Serial 075104. Made somewhere between 1980–1991.
Needs some TLC, last servicing marked on it was 2007. It had
compression, and oil, but no fuel. We cranked it over with the
plug-in electric starter and it seemed OK. I pulled the plug and
found that it had spark once you unplugged the key ignition switch
(for which there was no key, I'll probably replace it with a
weatherproof toggle), so I shot in some ether and put the plug back.
It fired for a moment, so I think the engine will be OK. The auger
turns, but I'm not sure about the state of the 5-speed transmission.
It needs some metal straightening up front, and some orange paint.
I hit the Ariens site and downloaded Owner's, Service, and Parts
manuals, the Owner's manual also has a Servicing section, which is
good because the Service manual can only be opened on a much newer
Acrobat than the one on the machine I normally use. I also asked them
how old it is. They replied back quickly that it was
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
I tipped the blower up on its nose and removed the access panel. The
inside looks well-greased and in good condition, though the friction
wheel is definitely worn. One of the drive chains had dropped off,
but I found its master link parts stuck to the cover with grease. It
should be repairable. The differential lock pin is very stiff, it
could use some oiling. So far, so good! Can't leave the blower up on
its nose too long or all the crankcase oil will drip out of the filler
spout, it doesn't seal perfectly.
I bought rattle-can paint at the hardware store. Primer, orange, and
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
I used a piece of wire to snake the high-speed chain back around its
sprockets, and re-pinned it with the master link. Looks good. I made
sure to put the clip on in the 'correct' direction. I then started
wire-brushing rust and paint flakes off of the scoop.
I printed out the Servicing section of the Owner's manual.
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Since I had the Chicken Wagon out of the
garage for welding I took advantage of the vacancy and put the
snowblower in. I took off the scoop, following the directions, and
took it all apart. (Tip up on nose and remove the four bolts and then
the bottom plate. While I was there I loosened the idler sprocket and
tensioned the chains properly. I put it back down on its wheels then
removed the belt cover and detached the blower belt. I removed the
two heavy bolts that secure the scoop to the tractor, then tipped the
tractor back onto its handles, then lifted the scoop off of the hook
rod. I removed the auger/gearbox/impeller by removing the side plates
and the plate at the impeller, nine nuts. The auger assembly then
just pulled out, though not without some difficulty due to the
deformed scoop sides. I removed the scraper and shoes while I was at
First up was some anvil work to straighten out the scoop, the lips of
the scoop were bent back and out yet the side planes were, overall,
pushed in. Weird. There was a crack forming where the barrel joined
the scoop, so I welded that shut, and ground the beads down some. I
wire-brushed the scoop and its parts, washed them with TSP, then dried
them and started painting with primer. I hung them all from a heavy
wire in the garage to keep them off the floor, and turned on the
heater in the garage.
I removed one of the augers from its shaft, you have to drive out a
roll pin. I then straightened the bent tips on the anvil, then
wire-brushed off all the rust. It wasn't greasy, so I just started
painting it. I left the other auger on its shaft for reference, no
real reason not to do them sequentially. The gearbox seems good.
This Ariens is infinitely better constructed than the Gilson snowblower
I've been fighting for years. Solid.
Sunday, February 12, 2012
More paint. The orange is not covering nearly so well as the black.
The nice ash bucket Jill got me a few years ago was falling apart, the
ears where the handle's bail attached were merely spot-welded onto the
body, one spot each! I scraped paint off with a jackknife and used
the spot welder to reattach that ear, two spots on the still-intact
flap and four on the flap that fell off.
Broke into the next stack (#6) of firewood today. (Five more to go!)
Monday, February 13, 2012
I brushed off the impeller and gave it a coat of primer. I was out of
orange paint so the scoop didn't get another coat.
I bought another can of orange paint today, and put some on when I got
home at night.
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
More paint. Just about time to start putting it back together again.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
The main toilet flapper broke. Again. The plug is in great shape but
its rubbery plastic attachment strap broke off. I'd first used a
screw through it, it rusted away. I then used a galvanized roofing
nail, it rusted away. Today's attempt is a piece of bent 10-ga copper
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
I put the one auger back on the snowblower, I had to relieve the shaft
a bit with a file. I then took off the other auger, its roll pin was
a beast. Once I got it off I wire-brushed it, straightened the bent
tips on the anvil, and primed it. I emptied the second can of orange
paint on the scoop, I think I'll get one more.
...After work I bought more orange paint, and when I got home I put
another coat on the accessible parts of the scoop. The auger got its
first coat of black.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
The garbage can's plastic lid was all broken and caved in. You can't
get just a replacement lid and the can itself is just fine, and
expensive enough that I don't want to get another one just because the
lid is compromised. I used duct tape to tack it back into shape and
Shoe Goo to fix all the cracks. Once the glue on the top had set up I
used duct tape to cover it all, as Shoe Goo is not UV-resistant, and
turned it over and beaded the cracks on the bottom too. I used more
glue than I'd have liked but it seems solid now, and should hold up
for some time. Half a tube of glue is still a lot cheaper than a new
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Recently we've been having Spring-like coatless weather, but today a
storm hit. Sideways snow, etc., a truly miserable day. It was fairly
wet snow, though, and we got maybe 6" of the stuff, I figured
maybe it was time I finished putting the snowblower back together. It
went well enough, but I did break off one bolt that holds a bearing
collar together. I left off the scraper because of the gravel
driveway; the shoes are down all the way and I don't want any
scraping, in fact. I put in some oil and gas, and it started readily
with the electric starter. The engine RPM seemed a bit low, but it
otherwise worked pretty well. The drive was reluctant to go at first
but as it warmed up it worked well enough. The differential and tire
chains meant that it in fact worked very well for me, unlike my
experiences with the Gilson. I got the driveway cleared, this one did
more for me today than the Gilson ever did. I threw a lot of
rocks in spite of my care, and the new paint on the chute got pretty
scratched up. Oh well, practice will no doubt help that get better.
The lack of knobs on the primary controls was not much of an issue.
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
More snow. The snowblower started on the first pull, and cleared the
driveway again without complaint. Nice.
Thursday, March 15, 2012
Broke into another (#5, a short one) firewood stack today. We've just
finished the second load of maple we acquired, and are now into the
half-rotted stuff we got between the two hardwood loads, from the
neighbors. If lucky we won't have to dip into the rest of the maple
before it warms up.
Friday, April 20, 2012
My Norelco Speedshaver (double-header) was crapping out again. It
needed new brushes, and one of the E-clips retaining the motor shaft's
spring retainer had broken. I had an extra brush that I'd made the
last time, so that was OK. I tried taking a
spare clip from one of the broken parts shavers, but that clip broke
too. I couldn't find my pack of Harbor Freight E-clips, so I ended up
wedging a split lockwasher over the post and gluing it into place.
Tacky, but seems to have worked.
Tuesday, May 15, 2012
The water pump has again been short-cycling for quite some time now,
winter was not a good time to go take care of that. (I get wet, every
time.) Seems to need it every six months? The procedure is now
different than last time, because yesterday I
stopped by Harbor Freight and bought a cheap lightweight 1/3 HP
oilless air compressor and a hose and fitting kit, both on sale, and a
1/4" ball valve (about $85 for all), and today I installed it.
This new compressor lives in the pumphouse permanently, and though
it's really underpowered it was cheap, and it's not like you have to
stand there and watch it work. (It's also oilless, which I suppose is
nice since this is our drinking water supply, after all. My
original plan had been to resurrect my old 'siezed' HF compressor for
this job, but when I finally opened it up I found the integrated motor
fried and the compressor intact. Scrap, in other words.) I replaced
the Schrader valve fitting at the pressure switch with a ball valve
and a male air coupling, and rigged out the hose and comressor with
suitable fittings. Now it only takes me about 20 seconds to get air
going into the tank rather than 20 minutes. Much faster, and I don't
get wet since I only open the ball valve after everything's coupled up
and the pressure is off the tank.
Details: I fire up the little oilless air compressor and couple it to
the tank's fitting with the coily yellow hose. I turn off the pumps
and open the yard hydrant to remove water pressure. Once the pressure
is down to a dribble I open the ball valve on the pressure switch
pipe, letting in the air. Once air starts coming out the yard hydrant
I close the valve, turn off the compressor, turn on the pumps, and put
the hose back away 'til next time. Because the tank pressure is then
below the safety threshhold I have to hold the pump switch on manually
while the pressure builds. I use a shelf bracket as a wrench, it
takes a lot of strain off my fingers, since pressure takes awhile to
build sufficiently to reach the automatic operation point.
Friday, May 18, 2012
The front screen door (wooden) was sagging a bit and hanging up. I
bought a small turnbuckle today and some screw eyes, and screwed the
eyes in the verticals in the center 'pane', diagonally oriented so
that tension would lift the low side up to eliminate the drag. I used
heavy wire to tie the turnbuckle into the center, then tensioned it.
Works great! It's adjustable, too, to adapt to future warping, and
the wire is thin and isn't too obtrusive.
Friday, June 1, 2012
Yesterday I took apart the broken front-yard frost-free hose bib,
first using the dedicated shutoff valve in the pink room's closet.
(There was a burst of stem leakage when I first closed it, but it
tapered off.) The stinger came right out with two pipe wrenches, and
rather than the broken-up washer that I expected I found that the long
3/8" brass tube that connects the handle assembly to the valve was
split and chunks were falling off. Oh. Yesterday while Daniel was at
soccer I checked at Ace, and they didn't have any repair parts for
such things. Today I hit Peters' Hardware and Bill
the Fauceteer, both places with a reputation for service and/or
odd parts. Apparently, however, there are no parts for such
things, they are not standardized and all the manufacturers expect you
to replace the entire faucet. Nice, except for the fact that to do so
you have to tear into the walls! Time for Plan B: make a new tube.
It had been suggested that House of Hose might have such things, but
all they had was a thick-wall stainless steel tubing into which the
pieces wouldn't quite fit. No matter, I can drill it out a bit at the
ends. I had them cut me a 13" length, it was about $4. At work I
checked the galvanic potential difference between brass and stainless
steel, and it was less than the 0.15 V difference that is generally
thought to mark the onset of significant galvanic erosion. Once home
I checked the length and it was a bit long, so I ground off a little.
I then used a drill to ream out a half inch or so at the ends in order
that the brass plugs of the operating mechanism would slide in easily,
and in fact a bit loosely. (They're supposed to be able to wobble a
bit.) These brass plugs have grooves in them into which the ends of
the original tube had been crimped. I pinned one cold chisel into a
vise and had Daniel hold the tube and an end in place over the chisel,
then I used another chisel and the BFH to tap firmly over the groove
in order to stake the tube to the end. We did this twice, once for
each end. When finished the ends were secure, but still able to move.
While I had bought a new washer, the screw that holds the old washer
in had rusted and was falling apart, so I did not replace it. The old
washer wasn't that bad, so I'll just stand pat for now. (I can afford
to waste the 45 cents I paid for it at Peters'!) I used a bit of
anti-sieze in the brass threads of the valve mechanism, and on the
handle's stem. The rubber washer at the outside was pretty chewed,
but looked reusable. I put it back together and it operated very
smoothly, no more squeaking or crunching. I turned on the water and
it worked perfectly!
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
The Costco (return) stainless steel gas grill's cast-iron burners have
been rotting away, a feat that I'd somehow thought was impossible due
to the heaviness of the burners, and the main reason I'd bought the
thing in the first place. Apparently they're not as durable as I'd
thought, and naturally enough Costco is not a servicing entity. Oops?
Anyway, I did some surfing and it appears that the maker is Dynamic
Cooking Systems (DCS), and their #12022 16" burner (for 27"
grills) is the part, replaced by #22701. I ordered two from
bbqparts.com, plus replacement electrode boxes. $113.91 all told,
we'll see if this buys us another ten years or so. (Apparently it is
cast brass/bronze, or cast stainless steel, that is the really good
stuff. Maybe next time.)
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
The grill parts came today, I started soaking the retaining wingnuts
in penetrant. They're stuck!
Thursday, July 19, 2012
I replaced all the grill parts. Not as hard as I'd feared. The
castings are a little different than the original, the standoffs for
the stainless steel heat spreader plates moved on one end so they
don't engage the plates properly. No big deal, mostly a cosmetic
issue. I used anti-seize on the wingnuts, which also don't engage
fully due to casting changes. Unless I plan to barbecue in a
zero-G environment this won't be a problem!
Monday, August 6, 2012
I finally replaced the burnt-out Christmas light
in the bedroom, with one from a scrap string I found in the garage.
Close enough in voltage and color.
Thursday, August 9, 2012
We noticed some tent caterpillars getting established in the shorter
new trees along the driveway. (In years past, in the taller more
established trees where I couldn't get up to the nests with anything I
just shot the nests/branches off with a shotgun. I hated doing that,
but didn't want them to spread.) These I could reach with a ladder,
so I used spray Diazinon to stun them, picked off the nests with a
stick for stomping by Daniel, then sprayed again and picked off any
leaves that had wigglers on them for the same treatment. There were
four nests, none too large yet.
Saturday, September 15, 2012
This spring I had collected two full Douglas fir trees that a
friend had scored for me, from the backyard of a house in
town. They'd hired a tree service to take down backyard threats, but
due to the terrain they could not get machinery into the yard. To
save money they'd skipped the healthy surcharge to remove the wood.
The (large!) rounds had to be rolled uphill by hand to the truck. We
got three full pickup-loads, in three days. Jill & Daniel helped
us the first day, Daniel only the second, and the third day it was
just us. Very good wood, but will it be enough? I'd stacked it into
three rows of rounds to dry over the summer.
We split the first (of three) row of rounds and stacked half of it.
Sunday, September 16, 2012
We finished stacking the first split batch, which came out to just
about one short stack in the shed. We then split half a row of rounds
and stacked it.
Monday, September 17, 2012
We split half a row of rounds and stacked it. Two rows of rounds down,
and the shed's sure not filling very fast! It's amazing how much wood
one of those shed stacks can hold. (When filling. When burning they
seem to evaporate pretty quickly!)
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
After work we split another half row of rounds and stacked it. The
wood's evaporating, but the shed doesn't seem to be filling very fast!
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Finished splitting and stacking the wood we had. About 7-1/3 stacks
in the shed, a little light. Sigh.
Friday, September 21, 2012
My friend coughed up another load of miscellaneous wood for
us, a short pickup load's worth. It was fairly far, and the wood was
more sticks than I'd hoped, and the rounds were partially decomposed.
Oh well, it's worth having I suppose.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
I started splitting the wood, but ran out of gas in the splitter
before I got too far.
Sunday, September 23, 2012
More gas in hand I finished splitting everything.
Saturday, September 29, 2012
We finished putting away the last of the wood and bark, and cleaned
up the area. We've got about eight full stacks' worth, plus the
sticks and bark.
Monday, October 1, 2012
No water! Jill was watering a tree with the big hydrant and left it
on for quite awhile, all the way. Oops. I think she just ran us out
and there's no other problem. I did notice that the pumphouse is wet
under the pressure tank, this may be its last season. The replacement
needs to have a bladder, the original air replenishment mechanism can
no longer work due to the reconfiguration of the well system with the
Sunday, October 7, 2012
The outdoor cat house lid has been broken for awhile, the Kyb
automotive shock absorbers that cushioned the heavy lid had broken out
of their wooden upper supports so the lid could drop, and also put
excessive stress on the Pugeot hood strut that holds the lid up. It
was time to reconstruct the upper mounts. The wooden sockets were
inadequate, so I drilled out the shocks' rubber bushings so that the
metal pins could rotate easily. I then installed a new 2×4
upper mount board, drilled 1.5" holes to take the upper shock
ends, and squared 1" slots in those holes with a big chisel.
Washered screws then hold the shock pins to the board, with the shocks
nestled into their rectangular slots, so the shocks can swing easily
in the board yet not come out. I then screwed the board to the lid,
placed (fore/aft) so that the shocks' resistance lets the lid fall at
a slow but steady rate, and placed (left/right) so that the board
doesn't hang up on the sides as it closes. That took a bit of
fiddling. I then re-secured the hood strut, using a piece of drilled
scrap metal to spread the stress out among three screws instead of the
one that was in a now badly hogged-out hole. (The other mount screw
was still good.) Everything is much tighter and more secure, it
should be good for some time now.
Sunday, October 14, 2012
When the pumphouse was rewired to eliminate its separate meter the
cable drop hole into it had been opened up. Birds found it, and
nested inside the insulation within all summer. Oops. They'd torn it
down all over the place inside, so I spent a lovely hour nailing up
lath strips to hold it back in place. I also cut off the remains of
the old cable feed and nailed a plank over the hole. That should fend
off this problem in future. With any luck the insulation will again
do its job and help prevent freeze-up this winter.
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
The last few days we've been drying prunes, the neighbors up the hill
had a bumper crop (as normal, except for the last two really bad
years) again, and we came away with about 5 buckets full. Split,
pitted, and placed in the food drier it takes about 1.5 days to dry a
full load, nine trays, a bucket and a half of raw fruit, resulting in
three full 40-oz cashew tubs' worth of dried. This is the third load,
and probably the last we'll get.
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Finished hanging a shelf in the laundry room today. Jill had bought
two wooden shelf brackets and a short MDF plank, and four coathooks.
Instant 'kit'... from her perspective! At least she'd had a place
picked out. After ascertaining just where/how she wanted it I screwed
the two brackets into the studs and nailed on the plank. That was
fairly easy, but the coathooks wouldn't have anything secure to hang
on to. I scared up a piece of oak pallet wood and cut it to fit
between the wooden shelf brackets. I sanded it smooth, then drilled
two holes in the center to tie into the stud the shelf straddles and
two on each end to attach to the shelf brackets, countersunk all six
holes, then screwed the board to the shelf brackets. I cut another
little piece of the oak to go behind the center of the board to fill
the space and give it something to cinch down on, then screwed it
securely to the center stud using long stainless-steel deck screws.
(The ends of the board were held to the bracket with drywall screws.)
Perfect! And very secure...and, as I got out a coathook to start
attaching those, very wrong! I should have looked at the
hooks, they're the tall hat/coat combination hooks and ran into the
shelf with the board where I'd placed it. Oops. I had to dismount
the board and move it down considerably, which left all the first set
of holes to look at. Ugly. Other than that the mistake was fairly
easy to correct. I then spaced the four hooks evenly on the board and
drilled their mounting holes, then attached them. Very secure;
oak is nice stuff.
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
The last few days it has finally cooled off enough that we've been
building fires. (We've had the furnace on, at 60 °F, for
a couple of weeks now. Our policy is that if you want it warmer
than that then build a fire.) The heating season starts! We've
got a lot of bark and sticks, those work well in the early days
and I'm hoping to reduce or eliminate the backlog of this junk
before the real cold sets in.
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Today the last of the bark backlog (leftover from years past)
went into the maw of the stove. That stuff is a real PITA. We've
burned some of the sticks, but haven't really dug into them yet.
That'll start now, and just in time too: we had our first snow today.
Saturday, November 24, 2012
The sprinkler controller (troll) also runs the Christmas lighting, and
the post-Thanksgiving part of November has always been a problem.
Thanksgiving, you see, is always the fourth Thursday in November, and
that's not something that cron is capable of finding on its own. I
refuse to have the lights on before Thanksgiving
is over, so the lights have always been a semi-manual proposition
before December. Today I finally rectified this.
I just have cron start a new
postturkey script every day
in November. This script figures out if the day number is greater
than the turkey day number, and if so goes on to run the lights. So,
cron gets told:
00 15 * Nov * at now + 1 minute 2>/dev/null%postturkey sunset deckthehalls 2330
00 15 * Dec-Jan * at now + 1 minute 2>/dev/null%sunset deckthehalls 2330
which runs the lights in January and December, and the guts of the
postturkey script used in November is:
tday=`cal | sed 1,2d | cut -c 13-14 | sed "/ /d" | sed -n 4p`
[ $day -gt $tday ] && exec $@
This all says that every day at 3 PM (while it's
still light out, so the
sunset script, which delays a
command until dusk on that particular day, will work) from the day
after Thankgiving through January 31, run the Christmas lights
from dusk until 11:30 PM. The new script just
runs the old
cal calendar utility and extracts the
Thursday column of data, and takes the fourth non-blank line. If
'today' is greater than this number go on to start the lights at dusk,
turning them off at 11:30. I should have done this years
Sunday, November 25, 2012
The last of the sticks and bark went today. We made it a month on
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
Got another pickup load of sticks and crap from my 'pusher', these
from a yard tree takedown. (These for next year, of course.)
Wednesday, December 5, 2012
My grandmother's old silver plate pattern that I like so much
is a 1926 pattern from 1847 Rogers Bros.: Argosy.
Wouldn't mind having some more of that, for daily use.
Saturday, December 8, 2012
Jill has been borrowing a Bass Clarinet from the community college,
since they have a halfway decent one they aren't using, and she
doesn't. (She plays it in the Community Band, so that fee is her
'rental', in spite of the fact that she has it so that she can play it
in pit orchestras.) Anyway, the leather handle on the case,
which appears to be a buckle-on replacement, has torn loose and there
is a shoestring laced through the D rings instead. Jill hates the
shoelace. (I don't blame her.) I took a look at the torn handle, and
decided that perhaps it can be repaired. I removed it and used Shoe
Goo to glue the torn tab back into the handle body, and some
cyanoacrylate glue to close up some of the cracks in the main part of
the tab. Once that sets up I'll use neatsfoot oil on the rest of the
leather to try to keep it from drying and cracking further, we'll see
if this works.
Jill's mother sends us, on occasion, various light-up Christmas
knick-knackery. (She has a bit of a Hallmark addiction.) One, a
snowy village model, didn't light up this year when plugged in. I had
a look, it uses a little wall-wart, labeled 24VAC
0.25A. I had a closer look, and the hatch on the
bottom of the unit opens to reveal a halogen reflector lamp firing
through a color wheel stuck on the end of a low-speed synchronous
motor. The lamp is a 12V 10W unit, and
there is a sticker in there warning to use only that rating of lamp.
Very interesting, the wall wart was being asked to supply 2× its
rated power, quite deliberately! No wonder it burned out (I checked,
I cut it open and its transformer's primary was open), and there was
no way it could have maintained its rated voltage under load, which
explains why the bulb didn't burn out after a few seconds of
operation. This was definitely the mated wall-wart, it has an odd
custom plug between the wart and the unit so it couldn't have gotten
mixed up when in storage. I guess the Chinese (?) engineers (?) at
Hallmark (?) are trying to burn down the USA, one house at a time.
I dug around in the junk pile and found a 12VAC
0.85A wall wart off of which I had already stolen the
cord and connector. (I do that kind of thing, loose wall warts are
cheap at the thrift stores.) It is twice the physical size of the
deader, there's a good chance it'll survive just fine, though it is
slightly overloaded by rating. I dug the connector out of the deader
and soldered it to the pigtail coming out of the scavenged wart, and
wrapped the joint in electrical tape. When plugged in the snowy
village model turns out to be a nightmare in fiber optics, but
otherwise seems happy now.
The same source has gifted us with a little battery-operated string of
LED Christmas lights, suitable for festive holiday beehive hairdos or
whatever, and it didn't work right out of the box. I popped open the
plastic shell and had a look. You know, it is customary for a power
switch to have at least two wires going to it! There was a
loose wire floating around inside which obviously had pulled out of
the switch after a thoroughly inadequate soldering job. That was easy
to correct, and the lights worked after that. As Daniel has used it
to decorate the Hallmark ghetto I needed to scare up a suitable
4–5VDC wall-wart so that we don't burn through
the batteries like they're free. I looked in the junk box and found
the first wall wart I had made for my Yamaha
tuner; it still worked and put out just about the right voltage.
I cut the cord off of a 15¢ thrift-shop cigarette lighter power
cord, whose plug fit the jack, and joined this all together. It even
works, I put the batteries back in the battery pile, no sense wasting
I'm happy. An entire morning of successful R&R (Repair &
Refit? Rest & Recreation? Why not both!) for no outlay, supplied
entirely from the junk box and shop supplies. (Glue, neatsfoot oil,
tape, cable ties, etc.)
Sunday, December 9, 2012
Just used up the last of the wood from that final pickup load of
sticks and crap.
Went out with Daniel to get the Christmas tree today. He wanted to
cut it down, but it was just taking too long so I finished it. Maybe
Saturday, December 22, 2012
It's hard to estimate, but I'd say that we've tapped into our second
stack of wood in the shed. (Estimation difficult because you have to
leave part of the prior stack to stand upon to reach the top of the
next [tall] stack.) This first (extra-short) stack thus lasted about
Monday, January 28, 2013
The last time I used the snowblower it started fading, and the choke
had to be on more and more in order to run. I suspected carburetor
clogging, and the next time I tried to use it it would not start
except on ether, which corroborated this opinion. Today it snowed
again, so I finally removed the carburetor and cleaned it. It wasn't
very dirty but it doesn't take much. I put it back and it ran well.
(You don't really need to remove these kinds of carburetors in order
to clean them, but I usually do.) I turned up the RPM a bit, I think
it was low, and tinkered with the mixture screw until it seemed to run
OK. It may need some final dialing in, but it was working pretty well
and I cleaned a substantial chunk of driveway. (The rubber drive
wheel needs some attention.)
Monday, February 11, 2013
When our second piano came here we
needed to remove the kitchen slider door for access. It's been
squeaking and stiff, and generally a PITA lately, so I wasn't looking
forward to it. (This is not behavior I welcomed in an expensive
Pella door.) Instructions on the web were vague.
In fact, it's easy. There are two access holes at the bottom edges,
into which a long Philips screwdriver is placed. These
screws lower the jacks that the rollers are on, and you can then lift
the door and swing the bottom edge out (having first removed the
retaining guide) and remove the door.
The problem was that one of the access holes in the aluminum cladding
was facing wood, not a hole! The end piece had apparently slid out of
position, rising up, of all things, and thus interfering with
the upper track. (Hence the squeaking and stiffness.) I had to dig
and chew my way in with the screwdriver in order to get access to the
jack screw. At that point everything went smoothly.
I did make one big mistake: I'd leaned the door back into the opening
to cut the draft, and when I went out the front door to get a tool I
heard a huge echoing "BANG!" from behind the house. Oops. The draft
from the front door blew out the panel and it fell flat onto the deck!
Fortunately I had moved everything out of the way, and I happened to
have the handle removed (unnecessarily, as it turns out) so it was
able to land flat. (And it missed the cats.) It was a miracle but
nothing was broken, not even the glass.
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
I pulled the inside rubber weatherstrip from the sliding door, and
from there the out-of-place edge cladding could then be pried out
gently and away from the door on one edge. It could then slide, so I
shifted it into place and I used a hammer and pliers to reshape the
bent bits at the top, and the damage from the screwdriver intrusion.
Then I put back the weatherstrip, which unfortunately got deformed in
the middle. A heat gun helped put it back into shape, sort of, but it
looks crappy. I'm sure we can get another one if we decide to. I got
the door back on track and jacked into place, but ran out of time to
finish the job.
Also, today, I glued the bottom metal disk back onto the ultrasonic
puck that goes in the blue-glass decorative humidifier. We like it a
lot, with its bowl of fog effect, and it's also practical. It doesn't
look like the glue needs to be waterproof or anything, so I just used
cyanoacrylate glue. It's fast and easy.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
I put the handle back on the door and adjusted the height of the
rollers with the screwdriver, we'll see if it behaves itself. My
theory as to why that edge strip had shifted and started scraping is
that the door was experiencing differential thermal expansion: as the
daily sun swept from the top down, with shade following later in the
same order, the top expanded slightly, pushing against the colder
bottom of the strip, and most especially its colder, grippier seal
material, and thus moved ever so slightly upwards. As shade then
crept down from the top it cooled and 'gripped' there first, then as
the rest of the strip cooled it was pulled upwards ever so slightly.
Repeat daily over a period of years and you can account for the half
an inch the strip had moved, against gravity.
To combat this (or whatever it was that did cause the shift)
I drove a screw into the edge of the strip, into the wood interior of
the door. With any luck that will pin it in place. I put bits of
duct tape over the screwdriver access holes in the door, since the
plastic plugs had degraded and powdered. That should help keep bugs
and dirt out of the works.
Sunday, March 24, 2013
We've tapped the last stack of firewood we put in last Summer, which
is both short and partially two-year-old maple. But it's starting to
warm up, too.
Monday, April 22, 2013
A couple of days ago I clumsily traumatized the strand of Christmas
lights I'd hastily hung as temporary welcoming
wedding decor. Turns out I darkened half the string, and after using
my handy-dandy LIGHTKeeper Pro (a miraculous tool!) I found that I'd
fragged two more bulbs. Bummer. In
twelve years of daily use we've only lost bulbs to trauma, none of
them have burned out. Running on a Variac dimmer really helps extend
incandescent bulb life! I replaced them with some used bulbs from
a scrap string.
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
I pulled all three bathroom exhaust fans and cleaned the bearings with
brake cleaner, then relubricated with ATF. That and a wash of the
covers and they're all good as new.
Friday, May 10, 2013
I re-aired the well's pressure tank as per the new
procedure, no problems—it just takes a bit of time. I
had thought the tank was leaking, but it was dry
underneath this time so maybe not. This new de-waterlogging procedure
is certainly easier than the old one!
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Yesterday I broke down and bought a new battery for the lawn mower at
Costco, $38; today I installed it and mowed the lawn. Jump-starting it
each time with one of the generator batteries
was really getting old.
While out today I stopped by Lowes and bought electrical supplies for
adding an outlet under the deck where we keep the lawn mower, also
about $38 (we have wire already, I should only need a breaker). If I
can get that in I stand a better chance of keeping the battery alive
longer. I plan to add an outlet and an overhead light, I have a nice
brass weatherproof fixture that was a thrift shop find. I should be
able to run a circuit from the new box, under the crawlway and through
the sill plate under the porch.
Thursday, May 16, 2013
A few days ago at the thrift shop I bought a vintage TI 1500
calculator, bagged with an SR-51A, $3 for the pair. I figured that I
could put batteries in the old-looking 1500 and use it in a
similar-vintage car for gas mileage calculations. Well, the thing
uses two AA NiCd cells! They had leaked, but not too badly. I
replaced them with new ones and it worked just fine. They're not
intended to be easily replaced, you have to take apart the case, but
that's not too hard. NiCd's inherently don't hold a charge all that
long, I'd have to figure out how to charge them periodically while in
the car. The stock charger is a 6VAC unit, and did not
come with the calculator. Today I went to the thrift shop and bought
a cigarette-lighter Game-boy adapter that had a 6 V output, and a
different wall-wart that had a plug that looked like it would fit the
calculator. (Well, it was a bit too small, but I was able to drill
out the barrel and carve away excess plastic to get it to fit anyway.)
I then removed the weirdo GB power cord and replaced it with the
modified one, and got it working supplying 6 V. The calculator
seems to take about 40 mA of charge, when off, which is low but
probably good enough. The unit is ready to deploy in a car, I
suppose. What a PITA, and another $5 of crap! The things I do to
keep cool vintage gear running sometimes...
Thursday, July 18, 2013
Quite some time ago I'd picked up a thrift-shop (garage sale?) box of
laminate wood flooring to use in Jill's office under the roller chair.
Daniel and I tried to install it today. Box said 9 pieces, and that's
what I'd counted when I bought it. Turns out, however, that it was
three different types! They don't even lock together. We tried to
make a floor out of it anyway, it seems to work OK but doesn't look
anything like as nice as I'd hoped. We'll see.
Sunday, September 8, 2013
Firewood gathering begins. (Two seasons late.) Yesterday I cut up
the sticks and pieces that had been given to me earlier this year.
I managed to break the starter rope, and had to go to town to get
more. $1. Today we got the truck going and went into the woods.
I needed to get farther into that piece than ever before, so I cut
one small tree to ease access, then we were able to get near the
two standing dead that I had targeted. We got them cut up and into
Monday, September 9, 2013
I fired up the splitter, and we split all the dry stuff that I cut up
Saturday, and all three trees from yesterday. No stacking, yet.
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
Stacking this AM. Stack #5 (short) is now restored to
glory, and #6 has been started. Unfortunately all of the two dry
trees I cut are in already, and the shed's still more than half empty.
(The live tree I cut down is too wet for use this year, and will be
stacked outside.) After breakfast and then stacking all the
dry wood, #6 is only about half-full.
...In the PM we cut up some fallen dead trees that were
up off the ground, they're dry enough and intact enough to be worth
Thursday, September 12, 2013
More standing (and fallen) dead trees yesterday and today. There's a
surprising amount of still-usable wood in that neglected corner of our
woodlot, and it's dry and ready to burn now. Which is good, 'cause
we're about out of time for the gathering of burnables. Weather's
heating up again, into the low 90's today, but the woods are still
damp enough from the not-too-long-ago rains that there's no fire
danger from chainsawing. Looks like we'll end up with about 7
stacks this year, two of them shorter than normal.
Friday, September 20, 2013
A couple of days ago Jill complained that the lamp in the microwave,
an Amana RR-6W from about 1976, was out. I pulled out the interior
baffle only to find that the lamp's not accessible from inside, but
the thing was so gross and greasy that I tore into it cleaning it.
The door had come apart once and had been glued together, before my
time, and it was looking very nasty, and the glue was failing. I tore
all that apart, and drilled out the broken-off plastic post
sites and put nylon screws in instead of the glue. (This plastic post
construction is the only dodgy part about the design. The materials
are all top-notch, other than these posts, a mechanically weak point,
all the plastic is still in near-perfect condition.) It took a lot of
time to get things cleaned up and put back together, but it looked
more like new after that other than the nylon screw heads that now
show inside the door. The window, in particular, now looked clean.
Oh, and a new 25W bulb was about $4 at the hardware store.
She'd complained that the oven was 'weak', but I tested it. Line
power was about 1450W, normal I hear, and a water heating test said
about 700W, which is correct. (Heat 1L of water for 33 seconds, the
temperature rise in °F times 100 is the effective wattage.) So
it's working as well as it did new, I think, and it's built like a
brick s***house. A pleasure to work on, almost. Good thing it's all
OK, a replacement magnetron is no longer available.
Saturday, September 21, 2013
Harvested the last of the usable dead wood I could find today, another
three smallish trees. Got it split and in the shed, along with the
remainder of the sticks (prunings, really), and got the tools put
away. A generous estimate is six stacks, total. Enough, I'd
imagine, but just barely.
While I was at it I cleaned the chimney, it wasn't too bad but it was
definitely time. Guess we're ready for the heating season, as much as
we'll ever be, whenever it should come along.
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
We've been burning awhile now, and we just put in the last of the
sticks. The next loads will be the standing dead we harvested.
Tuesday, October 15, 2013
Jill asked me to help out a friend of hers, the peg on his bass
clarinet doesn't extend far enough and he doesn't like the idea of a
longer peg. He thought a block of wood could be used on the floor. I
didn't have any suitable blocks of wood. I did, however,
have some firewood-length chunks of black walnut, so I cut a length
off of one and sanded the ends smooth, removed the bark, and drilled a
1" hole about a half inch deep into the center with a Forstner
bit. The result is quite rustic, there are some splits, yet it is
nonetheless both attractive and functional. He tried it out and
suggested shortening it about an inch or so, otherwise he was quite
happy with it. I cut it down and glued some sheet cork to the bottom,
and then rubbed on an oil finish. It looks nice, and should work
Jill has been having some pain in her right thumb, some kind of
repetetive stress injury due to all her recent instrumental playing.
A neck strap gives her neck pain, and she doesn't like using one on
her double reeds anyway. There once was a handly little device called
a FHRED, an adjustable stick that clamped onto an oboe's neck strap
ring and propped against a chair seat. She has managed to borrow one
and finds that it works well for her. Unfortunately they just aren't
for sale anymore, and apparently nobody who has one and needed it is
willing to part with theirs. I took some photographs of the borrowed
FHRED before she had to return it, and today at the hardware store I
bought some telescoping brass tubing and some other miscellaneous
hardware with which to fabricate one. We shall see if I can do this.
The tricky part will be making the clip. FHRED's was an elegant
little spring-loaded brass paperclip affair in a block milled out of
strong plastic. (Delrin?) I'm going to try using grenadilla wood, my
only fear is that it will be brittle enough that it will break if
dropped. On the other hand, my envisioned design isn't quite as
elegant as FHRED's, and will be easier to reproduce if it should
Sunday, October 20, 2013
Today I finished the oboe prop. I think it came out fairly well. I
felt unable to make a clip like the original, but I had an alternate,
less-elegant attachment in mind. First I cut out the grenadilla to
shape, cutting a notch in one end, then drilled a cross hole for the
pin. I then spent some time sanding it to shape so that the clip
would fit on the oboe and have the desired range of motion. (I used
the Laubin as a model.) I then drilled
a second cross hole midway in the block. I then took the 3/32"
rod and bent it twice and cut it off, with one leg just long enough to
go through the block, and a second leg much longer, bent to slide into
the two holes in the block. It looks something like this:
I then threaded the long end 4-40. With the pin(s) in the block, the
#3 compression spring on the long end, and a 4-40 brass nut on the end
of that you have a sliding pin assembly that you press on the
spring-loaded nut to slide the operating pin through the jaws enough
to release the oboe. I used a bit of Lock-tite on the nut to make
sure it didn't come off. The spring is fully compressed at about the
point where the pin is fully in its release position. The
spring-loaded bit is much more obtrusive than on the original, and far
more vulnerable to damage, but it's easier to fabricate. The pin/block
assembly looks like this, in closed and open positions:
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
||| ||| ||| |||
||||||| ) ||||||| )
I then threaded the end of the main rod 10-32, then drilled a matching
hole in the block and threaded it. I cut the rod to its 10"
length, then cut the outer tube to its 8" length and cut two
3/8" slip rings from the middle-sized tube. After a bit of
sanding to clean up the cut ends I then soldered one slip ring onto
the non-threaded end of the rod, and the other into the top end of the
tube. I soldered the 5/16" nut onto that same end, about 1/2"
down from the end to allow clearance for easy operation of the
thumbscrew. I then cleaned up the solder mess with a file, then
drilled and tapped into one face of the big nut for the 8-32 brass
thumbscrew. Just about done! I then slipped a length of black
heat-shrink tubing over the outside of the tube and shrank it into
place, and put a short piece on the short end too. I then assembled
all the pieces. A dark purple wedge pencil eraser caps the end,
giving it the grip it needs to not slide on your chair, and a bit of
Jill said it didn't fit on the Loree,
and it was true. The neckstrap ring on it is a bit larger in diameter
than the Laubin's. I used a round file to deepen the notch a bit. It
then fit, but wobbled a bit much for her taste because the file also
opened up the width of the notch. I may need to make a new block, and
do a much more careful fitting job as regards the notch dimensions.
It needs to be movable for expressive playing, and so can't be tight,
but not so loose as to allow the block to flop to the side. The shape
of the notch may be important, it might need to have an X-shaped
profile or something instead of a straight notch for best effect.
(Allowing more motion in one axis than the other.) I might have to
make another block. I have plenty of grenadilla, and it's not too
hard to make the way I did it. The worst part will be getting the
holes drilled to match the existing pin. We'll see.
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Just brought in the last of the first-burned stack of firewood, #7.
It had been about a full short-stack. (In a tall-stack site.) We had
a skiff of snow yesterday morning, it's definitely cooling off now! I
also changed the batteries in the outdoor temperature sensor.
Thursday, October 31, 2013
Some thoughtful soul dumped an entire pickupload of trash half on the
road and half on our property. Very Arlo Guthrie, the Sherrif's crew
will come and pick it up, and try to see if they can identify whom to
bill. It was done between 2:30 PM and
6:30 PM, between when Jill got home and when I
did. They said they'd come out Monday to pick it up.
Saturday, November 9, 2013
A few weeks ago the main toilet plugged again, for the last time. I
pulled it out. I found that the bolts were rusted away, the throne
could rock and had shifted a bit, the wax seal was now partially
occluding the pipe, and the floor was partially rotten. All not good.
We've been mulling over our various options since, including a
complete bathroom gut and remodel. (Jill's preference.) Certainly
nobody likes the old harvest gold toilet, but it's a high-flow model
and well-built, so I'm a bit conflicted about replacing it. (If its
flushing problems can be blamed on its mounting issues.)
Time is passing though, and we're expecting company for the holidays.
Sharing bathrooms is more stressful than one would like, and there's
no way any kind of remodel could be done by when we'd want, not unless
we rushed, and risked not getting what we'd really want yet paying
full, or even expedited rates. Jill is away in Europe for ten days,
so Daniel and I tackled the project aiming for a temporary solution to
be done before she gets back. That will allow us to pursue a final
solution at a natural pace. The damaged floor has dried in this time,
at least, so temporary repairs are practical. (Good thing it wasn't
particle board, or throne one would probably have gone visiting throne
two by now!)
I peeled away linoleum from wherever the plywood floor was damaged,
about a 2' circle was affected. I chipped away the remains of the
rusted iron floor mount ring, leaving the plastic drain pipe poking
through the plywood. Yesterday I'd bought a new ring, it fits the
plastic fitting very nicely but may need a spacer underneath. I used
the belt sander to remove the worst-rotted and scummy surface wood
layer, what was underneath mostly doesn't look too bad. I'd also
bought some wood hardener yesterday and I poured it liberally over the
bad flooring, in several passes. It soaked in like water into sand at
first, but as I was running out it started to look shiny on top as it
dried, indicating some approach to the desired saturation point.
There was some flashing protruding into the drain pipe where it had
been glued, I used the Dremel and a burr to remove that while I was
there. I vacuumed up the mess and left the fan on, door closed, to
dry and air out.
Sunday, November 10, 2013
I cut out eight roughly 2–3" strips of ¼" flat
scrap molding, with the ends mitered at 22½° angles so that
it fit together as a round frame on the floor around the pipe fitting.
I drilled every hole in the mounting ring that was provided for
screws, ten of them, and screwed the ring down to the floor with #12
1-¾" brass screws. They seemed to 'bite' pretty well, so
I'm not too worried about the state of the floor. Daniel and I then
went outside and cleaned the old toilet bowl. There was a lot of
crusted-on calcium, I ended up scraping it off with my antique
carbon-steel butter knife universal tool and wiping things down with
CLR. That was joyful. Daniel handled general scrubbing duties. I
wasn't too worried about scratching or marring it, I don't think this
fixture is going to be there all that much longer. Once it was
sufficiently clean we carried it into the house, one on each side made
the job easy. The wooden floor ring turned out to be too big to fit
underneath the fixture, I'll need to trim off the excess.
Monday, November 11, 2013
I removed the excess wood with a Fein vibratory saw. It worked slick,
and cut the soft wood like butter. Once that was trimmed away I then
found that it wasn't just the wood that didn't fit underneath the
fixture, the metal mounting ears on the ring interfered too. Oops. I
removed all the screws and rotated the ring, and the wooden spacers,
by 20° or so, enough to make the narrowest part of the ring match
the narrowest part of the throne. I then re-drilled and put the
screws back in. Bonehead! It seems to be OK now, the screws seemed
to have plenty of 'bite' coming out and going back in, so the
condition of the floor is still good. I set the throne down on the
floor over the hole, with the T bolts coming up through the mounting
holes in the bowl. It seems ready for mounting now.
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
We warmed the wax ring, stuck it to the bottom of the throne, and
turned it over onto the drain. Daniel helped me lower it carefully
straight down over the T bolts so that the ring wouldn't need to be
shifted after touchdown. A little bit of twisting and pushing down
and it was seated, and we bolted down the throne. I then put the new
rubber gasket on the tank and bolted it back into place on the throne
using the old bolts with new sealing washers. It's not as secure to
the floor as I'd like, as you can rock it a little bit on one side,
perhaps due to deformation of the floor, but it'll have to do and I
don't see anything actually wrong. I connected up the water and let
it fill, no apparent leaks. A couple of flushes and still no sign of
"It's beginning to look a lot like toi-let!"
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
I ground the nasty corroded hardware off the oak toilet seat, pulled
out the heavily rusted steel mounting screws, and knocked the ring
apart as the glue was failing. It's pretty icky. As a punishment
detail I set Daniel to sanding the wood, I did the first piece. I'll
glue it back together and slap some sort of finish on it. I'd have
bought a new one, but they're not that inexpensive, and given that
we're just going to end up ripping it all out again fairly soon...
Friday, November 15, 2013
Yesterday I was going to start gluing the seat ring back together, and
had bought some polyurethane to give it a good cleanable finish, but
it turns out I didn't have any glue and already had a small can of
finish. Doh! So today I swapped the surplus finish for more Gorilla
glue, and clamped the first two pieces together. I can only do one at
a time, as I only have one curved piece of wood that makes the thing
work in the bar clamp, and it's not worth making more.
It is interesting that the 'old' can of finish, perfectly usable, was
just about exactly half the price of the new one I returned.
Saturday, November 16, 2013
I finished gluing the seat ring back together, and carved off the
excess that foamed out with a chisel, then used the stationary belt
sander to dress the joints. I set it near the fire to finish curing.
Sunday, November 17, 2013
Jill's due back tomorrow, and since the power failed for six hours
early yesterday I had to handle the clock in the bedroom anyway. (An
old-school GE synchronous-motor classic, model 7294K made in Ashland
Mass, metal guts.) Its dial light, an NE-2 I've replaced once already
since I got it, is nearly black again and you can no longer read it at
night, a condition which Jill hasn't appreciated. I dug it out of its
nest and opened it up, and replaced the bulb again. It's not too
hard. I put it back together and it's nicely visible in the dark
again. This type of clock keeps perfect time. (The US power
grid is designed and managed to do exactly that, in fact.) So long as
the power doesn't fail!
I laid a couple of boards across the toilet bowl and covered them with
newspaper, and painted a coat of polyurethane finish onto the two seat
pieces. I hope it dries quickly, I only have today to get them
finished and dry and mounted onto the toilet.
...All day drying and the wood was still sticky, so I put them in the
oven at 200 °F on the backs of cookie sheets, and a few hours
of that and they were barely tacky at all. I turned off the oven and
let them cool in place. After I handled them a bit I decided a second
coat was called for, so I did that and left them drying in the oven
Monday, November 18, 2013
Last day! I screwed the plastic hinges to the seats and put the
assembly on the throne. Not quite centered, it turns out, but good
enough. I then washed the muddy lid cover (weeks outside!) and set it
aside to dry, then put away most of the tools. I kept out the vacuum,
we're not really done but at least it looks (and presumably, works)
like a bathroom now.
I wonder if a broken wax seal can leak air, breaking the siphon and
contributing to our flushing problems? I guess we'll see.
Sunday, December 1, 2013
I screwed the over-the-toilet cabinet to the wall. It had been on
stilts, but the thing was nasty pressboard and had gotten wet at the
bottom, and the removals and all had been very hard on it. I screwed
one of its leg braces to the wall (through the studs) as a perch, and
used another one to clamp it through the back to the wall. I left the
top strap on as well, it seems secure enough. It's a bit higher than
before allowing better access to the tank, and it doesn't get in the
way of servicing anymore, nor can it really get wet.
Wednesday, December 4, 2013
Just brought in the last of the next stack of firewood, #6.
It had been about a full short-stack. (In a tall-stack site.)
It was 12°F this morning, we're in a cold snap.
Friday, December 6, 2013
...and getting colder, 9°F this morning.
Saturday, December 7, 2013
...and colder, 4°F this morning.
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