Anything else that needs (?) logging, but that doesn't deserve a page of its own, is here.

Friday, December 15, 2000

I hung up a string of Christmas lights in the bedroom, draped from pre-existing plant hooks and the ceiling fan. Wedding decor, very festive! They're intended to welcome my bride home tomorrow. They're tapped into the Variac that runs the lamp on the headboard, so they can be dimmed too.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

We got maybe 2' of snow yesterday and today. Fortunately it was powder, so the power is generally on around here, though the roads are largely impassible—especially ours. We're not going anywhere soon. I spent the day trying to get the $75 Gilson snowblower I got at Goodwill years ago running again. It keeps stripping the bronze gear in the auger drive. Said gears were once a relatively inexpensive service part, as they were sacrificial, but are long unavailable at a decent price. (They want $70 for mine.) I've been trying to make new teeth on it with the acetylene torch and a brazing rod. I made new bumps, then cut, filed, and sanded tooth profiles on it. Then I got it all put back together, especially that wretched drive belt that's so hard to fit. I had to weld a crack that was starting in the fan chamber.

It fired up fairly easily considering it hadn't run in several years, a little ether works wonders. I fed it to the snow, and I got maybe a couple of feet in before the gear stripped again. Crap. All that work for nothing. The 5 HP Briggs motor runs very well, it would even idle nice and slowly. I should have taken the $50 I was offered for it when I took the thing in to see about a new gear a few years ago. (They wanted the motor. That place is out of business now, or I'd be trying to take their offer. Snowblowers are going for a premium right now, and I bet parts on the hoof to fix one would be welcome too.) I have spent countless hours trying to repair that gearbox, but I think I have to give up now. If I had a milling machine I could try to make a proper new gear, but failing that I think we're done.

In lieu of using the machinery I did a bunch of shoveling. We figured out why the dog wasn't sleeping in its Dogloo, the entrance was completely blocked by snow! We've had maybe half the usual annual snowfall here in the last day, it's record-setting. (But they've only been tracking it since 1889 or so.)

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

The Fluke IR probe has been flakey for some time now, and it wasn't the battery. I opened it up to have a look. I found a solder whisker shorting across the output terminals, I think that could explain its sensitivity to the position of the battery and its wiring. I cleaned off the whisker with a soldering iron, set the probe to Centigrade, and put it all back together. The probe end is pretty elaborate. It looks like it might have an emitter and a sensor, and there's a large coil as part of the head assembly.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Some time ago I bought a Harbor Breeze ceiling fan at Goodwill, $15 with lights, and today I started installing it in the gazebo that's out on the new deck. Everything was there except the mounting bracket that the rod's ball hangs in, but of course it was all originally intended to screw to a ceiling box and not into the single threaded nut that's what's in the gazebo. Enter the acetylene torch and the MIG welder. Using the dead spring and shackle bolts from the boat trailer rebuild, I made an "X" that lined up with the screw holes in the shroud. I welded a dead metric capscrew (originally from the 560 SEL's suspension pump) that matched the gazebo's threads to the center of the "X". I welded nuts to the X to take the screws through the shroud. I then hung a circular ring (formed from another spring bolt) from a basket of old framing nails such that the fan's hanger rod was happy. Another nail welded in place gave it a guide to mate with the notch in the ball so it wouldn't spin in the socket. After bending and forming I got it all to fit together, then I hung the bracket from the gazebo. I lashed each of the legs of the "X" to the gazebo frame to catch the fan if the single bolt should ever break loose. I then assembled the fan and hung it from the new mount, which was uneventful. For wiring I dragged an old computer extension cord out of the junk pile, it was black and quite long. One end was missing, so I wire-nutted that to the fan. The other end I ran down the gazebo's metalwork to nearby outlet, lashing it in place with black twist ties, and plugged it in using a surplus computer power cord. (This extra joint is placed where it is easy to reach, for enabling and disabling the fan.) Two 40 W candelabra-base bulbs completed the ensemble.

It all works well, but I think the fan needs a tiny bit more space above it to get better airflow. I'll either extend the rod or the basketwork at some point, I think I can add about 6" before it gets low enough to be distressing.

It was slightly off balance, but the plastic spring clip used for balancing worked well. It took some time to find the right place, but it seems to have cured it. I replaced it with a stick-on weight from the fan balancing kit.

[I later found the missing bracket in the trunk of the car I'd brought the fan home in. Oops.]

Thursday, August 12, 2010

My Norelco Speedshaver (double-header) was crapping out again.
110V-6W-AC-DC ≅ 20'

This was bought for my paternal grandfather in 1959 when he was in the hospital just before he died. He never really used it, and I got it at puberty. It's been a bit of a trial to keep it running all these years, about 35 years of daily use, but it's a challenge I sometimes enjoy.

I disassembled it (four screws, two of them under plastic plugs in the whisker chamber) and put the dirty non-electric stuff in the ultrasonic cleaner, it was desperately in need of this. The brushes are worn down again, which is what is keeping it from running right. BTDT. I need 2.5×4 mm brushes, about 10 mm long. They're hard to find, I used to scavenge them out of other same-model thrift shop shavers, but that supply dried up years ago. I'll probably have to file something else down.

After work I went to the hardware store (Argonne & Montgomery, the one I work next to no longer carries brushes) and bought a big brush (1×5/8×5/16") that should be able to be cut down into several of these. About $5. We'll see how it goes.

Friday, August 13, 2010

I used the Delta scroll saw to cut two brushes from the face of the big brush, it came out that I got two side-by-side from one 2.5 mm slice off the face. Perfect. But they're too long as it turns out, so I cut one in half and used it, leaving one spare. I then reassembled the shaver, using 70W synthetic gear oil as lubricant, and tried it out. Works fine again. The brush makings will go into the shaver's case under the sink.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Went to Olga's (a co-worker's) property north of Deer Park and picked up some downed aspen (or birch). We took the car trailer. About 2 cords' worth, and largely dry already. Was a very nice day for such activity, the family had a good time I think. This should ensure that we have enough wood for this Winter.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Jill's private oboe student showed up with a new Accent oboe. The joints 'caught' going together the last little bit, and were very difficult to break apart. This was of concern to all. I measured the tenon and socket and determined that the inside part of the tenon and the outside part of the socket were interfering as the joint seated home. (The corked center is turned down a bit, and can't be at fault.) I filed the outer 1/8" of the socket using a fine riffler, gently and with several passes, to loosen the fit slightly. That seems to have done the trick. I tried to err on the side of not enough, we can always take off a bit more later. This oboe was (near as we can tell) the OB790G, a $2,000 horn that's made in East Germany, out of Buffet's Greenline material. It's on indefinite loan from her uncle, who has some connection with some school somewhere. (It is possible that it wasn't the G model as they appear to have a W suffix in their product line that stands for wood, which means there may be a suffix-less number for regular plastic, but their web site only has two G models listed for oboes. The horn itself didn't have a recognizable model number on it, so I'm not really sure. I haven't handled any Greenline instruments personally, so I don't have that to compare to. It was obviously plastickey, with a brushed grain texture. If it were not Greenline I'd expect it to cost somewhat less.)

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

We bought an entertainment center at the thrift shop. Not quite the styling we were looking for, but not too bad. (Dark oak and leaded glass.) It's just the right size, anyway. We've been looking for awhile, and finding nothing that was just right. (Cherry finish, Mission styling, tall.) If we're going to compromise anyway, a used (inexpensive) unit is much more palatable than a new one. It's about 4' high, and 5' wide, so it's got a very nice big space on top for a medium-large flat panel display. All the AV equipment will fit easily into it.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Got the truck emptied out and swept, and unhooked from the car trailer, so Jill picked up the entertainment center. Got the neighbors (K's) to help carry it up the stairs and in, it was more than Jill and I could handle by ourselves.

Friday, September 3, 2010

Installed the A/V equipment in the new entertainment center. The back is open and it's on wheels, so it was fairly straightforward to get everything hooked up and then rolled back into its niche. There was about an inch on each side to the walls.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

I adjusted and tidied up the door hardware. The TV hole hinges are nice German ones, they are screw-adjustable for positioning. I used a chisel to remove the excess polyurethane glue where somebody had repaired a door that got broken. The unit is not top-of-the-line furniture, but it's definitely a step or two up from the bottom.

I finished repairing the collapsed stacks in the wood pavilion. Ready to begin loading in the new wood, once I think it'll stop drying out in the windrows.

Thursday, September 9, 2010

I replaced one of the downstairs 'hallway' globe lamps today. It's been in daily use since I bought the house in 1993, and who knows for how long before that. Impressive. Sylvania, 60 W 130 V.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Today they finished up the driveway revamp. (All I did was pay for it.) It came out to about $5100, which is more than I'd expected. Imagine that. There was a lot of digging and grading required, though. It's nearly 1' deep in places, asphalt chunks (cobble) topped with 100 tons of recycled asphalt. It's black, and tamps down well.

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

First fire of the home heating season. I'm surprised she hadn't started already. (She's less tolerant of cool interior temperatures than I am.)

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Got all the firewood finally loaded into the wood pavilion. About ten full stacks, total, and the shed's nearly full. With great effort one could maybe get twelve full stacks into it, but that would be difficult, and a bit dangerous. We started with 1.5 stacks leftover from last year, and had three long rows drying outside. They extended from about the end of the terrace by the steps to the center of the middle garage. Will need to get about that much each year, I'd say.

The wood outside got wet, in spite of the tarp. (It was kind of leaky.) I'll need to get started loading it into the shed earlier next time. I'd left it outside to take advantage of the usual September weather, but it got wet at the end, and October was also wet, and I lacked time. The extra drying time was, I'm sure, more than offset by the water that got onto and into the wood; some of it is quite wet.

If I could just get ahead of the game enough to get really dry firewood to burn, I'd probably need less per year. Less work, total, if I can just get on top of the chore and stay there. Yeah, that'll happen...

Thursday, November 18, 2010

First snow. 1" or so.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

I'd been wanting to put shelves in the garage over the door into the house since I bought the place, as that spot over its stairwell was just this vast unusable cobweb collector. Today I finally did something about it. Yesterday I'd bought some metal shelf brackets, the cheap zigzag ones, and I put them up today. I used the leftover plywood from the rickety corner storage shelf I'd torn down recently (and replaced with a Gorilla Rack) for the shelves. To access the shelves I built a hinged platform out of the plywood and some scrap 2×4's. It drops down from against the wall, bridging the stairwell to the utility room and giving easy access to the new shelves. That'll help a lot.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

0 °F and a foot or so of snow on the ground, it sure would be nice to have the snowblower working! Monday I'd gotten a start on it, but there was a lot more to do. Today I took apart the gearbox and dug out all the brass-filled grease. I put the gearbox back together with the new gear in place and reinstalled it into the machine, with a fresh load of grease, but it didn't really want to start after that. It was really cold, which didn't help, nor did the very stale gas in the tank. I filled the tank with fresher fuel and sprayed some starting ether into it to juice it up, then sprayed some into the spark plug hole. I also used the propane torch to heat the head. I finally got it firing, roughly, but it never really wanted to take off, and had no power. I used most of a can of starting ether getting and keeping it running until it was finally somewhat self-sustaining. It backfired once and caught the starting fluid on fire, which was a bit of a thrill considering that it was the exterior of the fuel tank that was burning. Powder snow works as a fire extinguisher, though you have to use a lot of it! Unfortunately you've then got semi-melted snow packed into and refreezing in the works. It was just pure joy all around, and then I ran out of time. Still no idea whether or not the thing will work yet.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

I got the snowblower started again and noticed that I was again smoking the belt. It's very hard to get the auger assembly in so that the belt brake is in the right place. I figured out that the trick is two screwdrivers: one to hold the brake 'off', and a larger one slipped across the transmission pulley face to tip the brake away from the drum. Once you do that it's possible to get the belt installed in the right place fairly easily. I then tried it out. It threw snow, but was anemic. After awhile it started running fairly well, but was still not clearing well, and I eventually noticed that the augers were on backwards! They were pushing the snow away from the mouth of the blower. That explained a lot. So I got to take it apart again, and put the augers on the right way around. The engine seemed 'slow', so I found that I could bend the far side support of the throttle spring to make the spring tighter, which raised the RPM. I then adjusted the mixture and idle screws for best effect. Finally this thing was starting to throw some snow! I cleared the driveway and as much of the walkway and parking pad that I could, given that there were cars on the way and a lot of tromped-down icy paths. Near the end of the job I managed to catch a piece of hidden Trex in the augers, which beat them to pieces. Literally. I got out the BFH's and two big crescent wrenches and bent things back into shape, then welded the breaks back together. Looks less pretty than it did, but seems to work. I then finished the job. At the end the muffler fell off, the screws had backed out. (I only recovered one of the two, it's possible that one had been gone for some time.) It didn't run right when it was breathing its own exhaust. I shoveled the remainder, and then moved on to deep-frying the turkey. Clearing the snow was to allow our guests to arrive easily.

Friday, December 10, 2010

Broke into the third stack of firewood (of ten) this morning. (The first true full-height stack, but I estimate that we've used the equivalent of one full-height and one short stack to this point.) Since we started burning on October 12 that's about one stack per month; we've had some cold weather and, due to guests, a couple of weeks of heating the downstairs too. Not bad! On the other hand we didn't need to heat much at first, and it took nearly the first month to get all the wood into the shed to quantify, so that first month might not actually count much. At closer to two stacks per month I'm less happy, but we should still be fine.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

The last of the outside Christmas decorations is up. A few days ago at the thrift shop I found a set of Musical Christmas Bells, model MB9-C from 1989. (Hong Kong's Capricorn Electronics, Made in China.) $2. These are real brass bells, nine of them in a string, with a small controller box powered by a 12 V wall wart that drives the solenoid clappers in the bells. What distinguishes these from the usual schlock is that the twelve carol arrangements are rather nicely done, much like you might hear a (small!) bell choir perform. (I've seen a lot of junk since then with molded plastic bells with speakers in them, complete with a bad light show and greeting-card sound quality. Ugh. These were a class act, although they are a bit on the fragile side—the clappers often need adjusting after they're handled.) These seem to have entirely disappeared from the marketplace. I did see one set of these, the exact same set, on eBay for $75. (A 12-bell set claimed that the original price sticker was $85.)

I remember being very taken with these when they came out, enough so that I'd bought a set as a gift for my parents even though they were kind of expensive for a Christmas decoration. ($50? More?) They'd hung them out in the utility room in a garland over the doorway to the garage. The bells sounded lovely—the first few times 'round! But it gets old fast. At least they still looked good even when unplugged. When I bought these Jill was extremely emphatic that they were not to go anywhere inside. Hey, honey, trust me. If she would have asked, or even listened, I would have told her what I was thinking.

I liked the bells, a lot, but a small dose is sufficient. At my parents' they were far too close to the action. Eventually someone would step out of the kitchen in desperation and yank the plug on the things. Sometimes to applause. My idea was to hang them outside, out where you park. When party guests arrive they can be captivated by the bells for the little bit of time they're willing to stand outside in the cold listening, but once inside they're well away from the racket. Less is more. This morning I hung them out under the eave of the new garage; the bells aren't rated for outdoor duty but they should be well protected there. After adjusting the clappers (again!) they cycled through their tunes. They sounded very nice, I think Jill might not even mind them there. Daniel thought that they were kind of cool, too.

Turns out my dad threw away their set of bells, they'd stopped working and after mom died there was no champion there to protect them. I bet I could have fixed them, but he was sick of the things. (I'd have liked them for spares...)

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Yesterday I bought another flange bolt at the hardware store ($1.40, rapacious!), today I reinstalled the muffler on the snowblower. I had to remove three head bolts to get the shroud off so that I could reach the bolt heads. I used a bit of anti-sieze on the muffler bolts.

Monday, December 20, 2010

About 3" of snow today. I fired up the snowblower (second pull, with ether) and it was working pretty well, but I was catching a lot of gravel. I cleared the pad and then started down the driveway. Not even all the way to the end it started making scraping noises and throwing sparks. One of the welds had broken on one of the fan blades, and it had thrown against the throat and was scraping away. I was short of time, and so ran it back and parked it. I think it'll be easy to weld back. I also lost a pivot screw on the choke lever.

Sunday, January 2, 2011

We got about a foot of snow while we were gone. Today I fixed up the snowblower again: welded the fan blades, replaced the missing choke screw, and put back the original muffler bolt, which fell out of a crevice in the engine where it had been hiding. I also set down the skid plates, to try to avoid the gravel. All back together I then cleared the driveway as best I could, but because it had been driven on substantially since the snowfall it wasn't easy, nor well done. Still, it beats a shovel. Nothing bad happened this time, for a change.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Broke into the fourth stack of firewood (of ten) this morning. Another full-height one. (You have to crack the next stack before you finish the one in front of it, because they're too tall to reach the top unless you stand on the depleted stack's remnants.)

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

More snowblower. The auger seemed to stall at times, I don't know if it's the seriously-damaged belt slipping, or if it's the gearbox again.

Friday, February 4, 2011

Broke into the fifth stack of firewood (of ten) this morning. Another full-height one. About three weeks per stack burn rate?

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Started on next stack of firewood today, #6 of 10, a short one. We were away (Disneyland) for most of a week last month, but there were a couple of weeks of arctic blast too so it balances out. The bulk of the wood in the last stack was partially-rotted but dry fir. A pain to handle, and buggy, but it heated well.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Broke into the next stack of firewood today, #7 of 10, a tall one.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Picked up the first firewood for next year, filled the pickup and the car trailer with some of a 100-year-old maple the relatives in Walla Walla were forced to cut down. (It was starting to threaten the house.) Heavy!

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Today I noticed that we've finally lost a light bulb in the strand of Christmas lights I'd hastily hung as temporary welcoming wedding decor. Well, we liked the effect so after more than ten years of daily use we finally lost a bulb. Running on a Variac dimmer really helps extend incandescent bulb life! (They're usually on all night at a very low level, as a nightlight. When they [and the reading light] are on at a higher level it's usually about 80% or so, which I've found provides adequate light yet really extends the life of the 100 W bulb in the reading light.)

Sunday, June 5, 2011

The water pump has been short-cycling for quite some time now, and the weather was finally nice enough to encourage tackling such non-emergency projects. I got out the air hose and coupled it to the pressure tank, and refilled it with air. This needs to be done a time or two per year, now. (It's an old-style non-bladder tank, and when the water system was redone to have a cistern the old air-injection valve in the well no longer did its job. [It was later removed altogether when the original well pump went bad and was replaced, along with several sticks of corroded well pipe.]) If/when the tank is replaced with a bladder type this job should go away. OTOH, bladder tanks don't last as long as the old style.

Details: I fire up the oilless air compressor and run hoses out to the wellhouse. (Some are kept in the wellhouse, others are not.) I turn off the pumps and open the yard hydrant to remove water pressure. Once the pressure is down to a dribble I remove the screw-in Schrader air valve on the pressure switch pipe and replace it (9/16" wrench) with a fitting that mates with the air hoses, and then jam the air hose on. (You get a bit wet at this step, it's nice to have a warm day for the operation.) Once air starts coming out the yard hydrant I reverse the procedure and fire up the pressure pump again, and put everything back away 'til next time.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

We have a lemonade dispensing tub in our party supplies, a Tablecraft 953, which got badly cracked while stored outside over the winter. I used a Mini-weld III (Urethane Supply Company) airless plastic welder that I got at the thrift shop, using the closest match rod that was in the kit. (The kit's current equivalent seems to sell for about $200, I got this one for $15.) It seems to work! I repaired the cracks in the tub and filled it with water to see if it leaked. It didn't.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

My Dad's going to Ireland this Fall and we were discussing small tripods. Recently I ran across a vintage Kalimar PE-8 tripod, which is intriguingly small and was only $4. It's also all metal, except for the plastic knob on the operating handle, yet still light. It, however, was missing the camera screw. It will extend to about 4' in height, with the geared center post extended. It's quite flimsy at full extension, but at minimum extension (for use on a table) it is quite nice. I thought it would make a nice gift, if I can replace the camera screw.

I found a nice Allen capscrew with knurled sides in the junk box, and re-threaded it 1/4-20, which is a close-enough match to the camera-standard 1/4-20 Whitworth thread. I disassembled the tripod head and drilled and threaded the hole in the top of the tripod, then ground off the screw's neck threads so that it wouldn't grab in the top once the screw was in. I also had to grind the length down some so it wouldn't bottom in the test camera. Due to its length the capscrew cannot be removed from the head except through a hole in the disassembled head, so it won't go anywhere. The threads are a bit of a mess, and the knurled head is too small, but I think it'll work for whenever it's needed. It looks nice enough, anyway.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

The wind took out the lemonade tank again. While I was fixing a piece of Jill's 560 SL I fixed the tank again. I must learn to be more careful stowing it, I doubt it's got much life left in it at this point!

Thursday, July 14, 2011

A new sprinkler system has been commercially installed with the new lawn (and landscaping). They reused what was reusable of my original installation, which had been ruined when the West Wing was constructed. (The dug-up original control cable is intact on the surface of the dirt along the west wall, 'til about midway. The apparently-intact cable from the valve box surfaced near the north-side window of the music room. They spliced in a new piece of cable between these points, the northern splice is in an underground box beneath the window.) All worked when operated manually, but there were some problems when I turned on the timer. Three circuits (of six) were inoperative:
  1. Circuit #2, the red (#2) wire, was cut. Testing at the two cable splices determined that it was cut somewhere under the dirt between the valve box and where the (dug-up, snagged) wire surfaced at the northern edge of the West Wing. Replaced with the spare White (#9) wire in the cable.
  2. Circuit #3, the orange (#3) wire, had broken off its valve body again due to all the handling required by manual valve operation during the new installation. I scraped and soldered it back on as best I could. (Again, and for probably the last time.)
  3. Circuit #5, the green (#5) wire, also was cut. Same deal as #2, and the fix was the same. Replaced with the spare Gray (#8) wire in the cable.

We're down to only one spare wire (#7, purple) in the cable! Given that there are two broken wires it is probable that the waterproof sheath is open underground, and not too unlikely that the inner insulation is compromised on currently-working wires. We shall see!

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

The well ran dry this morning. The new-lawn watering schedule uses 6× the amount of water as normal. (1 hour [15 minutes/circuit] every other day versus 20 minutes [5 minutes/circuit] every two hours from 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM, for a total of 2 hours every day.) There's no way we have enough water during Summer to put in new grass. Which is why we called the landscaping company two months ago, during our long wet Spring. They waited 'til it got hot before they showed up, the jerks. We're probably going to have to let it die and re-seed in the Fall. Just another dissatisfaction to add to the (already rather long) list regarding this job.

I have completely stopped the watering system, I want to see how long it takes until the cistern is replenished. (Jill has also suspended laundry operations.) I should be able to maintain the non-lawn watering schedule, but I'd like more baseline information.

Friday, July 22, 2011

Even with the watering system shut off it has taken 'til this morning for the cistern to refill completely. (I've been checking twice daily.) That is not good!

Monday, September 26, 2011

The Kenmore dryer (Model 110.76930100, Serial F83818628) has been making dire noises again for awhile, today I pulled it apart. The last time it was one of the two drum support rollers. As it is this time! (The other one, I hope, but I no longer remember. The dead roller was the one on the cantilevered pin over the motor, not the one with a support bracket on the other side.) Anyway, as usual I took it apart too far, before I figured out what I should have done. In fact for this kind of thing there's no necessity even to pull it out from the wall. The top pries up after removing two Philips screws in the screen well. Two more screws inside the top front and the face lifts off, after you remove the safety switch wires to the door. You then reach under the drum and disengage the belt from the motor, then the drum comes out the front. From there you can reach everything. The rollers are held on their posts with triangular nylon retaining clips, which can be pried open, gently. The failing roller's center was hogged out almost completely, there's a lot of debris sprayed around. One of the two door support ropes is also broken, I'll try to see if I can replace that too.

I hit the online parts sources, and found that Sears' own site was kind of a pain. The prices weren't that great, either. PartSelect was faster to navigate, and less money. One irritation is that through them the rollers are only sold in 2-packs. Total $33, shipped, for two rollers and a door cable.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

The dryer parts came yesterday, today I installed them. (The wheels are FSP, labeled "Support", numbered 349241T code 110206, made in US. Also marked 4391722 Rev. C, TM Whirlpool.) I only replaced the one wheel, but I did clean and grease both axle pins. (Axle grease, naturally.) The spare wheel is taped inside the cabinet for next time. I had a close look, and the dead wheel is also labeled FSP, so I guess it's the replacement from last time. The door cable (#230131) was easy to replace, just clip it in and hook up the spring. Reassembly was mostly uneventful, and it again works quietly. I did get the belt cocked off of its idler roller the first time, but it didn't sound or track right and it was easily put right. I don't think any damage was done to the belt, but the belt is old and will need replacement eventually.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Brought back another truck/trailer load of maple from Walla Walla. The trip was uneventful. (Also brought back a nasty heirloom couch, the kind that folds down into a bed. Said couch is what's to go under the downstairs TV, up against the wall. Not really what I'd expected! It was pretty musty, I left it un-tarped in the hopes that three hours in the wind would do it some good.) Daniel and I unloaded the trailer into the shed, the stackable stuff towards the back, the jumble towards the front. There's still some unsplit rounds on the trailer, and the truck's still loaded with jumble.

Thursday, October 13, 2011

I split the last of the unsplit firewood and stacked it in the shed. We're up to 6.5 stacks, a bit light. But we have a huge jumble of odd blocks and chunks to throw in front of the stacks, both what's in the truck and the pile from the last trip. I think we'll be OK for the winter, we just need to get it all inside the shed.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Jill and her friend Carolyn unloaded the truck into the shed while I was at work. All that's left is to move the jumble pile into the shed too.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

The last of the firewood is in the shed. I finished the seventh stack with the more stackable pieces from what came off the truck, then Daniel and I moved the jumble pile inside. It's easily two more full stacks' worth, so we can safely say we've got nine stacks. Ten is all we need in a winter, if we heat pretty exclusively with wood, and if conditions are good and the maple is dry enough it should stretch further, or if we end up using the furnace more. We shall see!

Saturday, November 5, 2011

It's been getting cold and I've been tidying up. I found a "Freeze Cap" brand faucet cover I'd gotten at the thrift shop. I installed it on the faucet behind the house. It's intriguing because you screw a plastic retaining ring to the wall and a styrofoam-lined plastic cap bayonets to the ring. It's easy and quick to install and remove, and the plastic outer shell is much more durable than the usual raw styrofoam. The box it came in was styled like the 1970's, and was a bit tired, but the cap was in perfect shape. It probably sat around a lot of years. When was the last time you found what was essentially a cheap piece of plastic crap that was made in the USA and not China? Looks like they're still available online, about $9. (No mention of manufacturing location.) I'd like one for the front faucet too, but because it's a rock wall and the faucet sticks out further than it ought to (since the brick was replaced with a rock veneer) I don't think it'll work.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Snow on the ground this morning for the first time. It's been pretty cold for nearly a month now, especially the last couple of weeks, and we've been starting to burn wood. I suppose it will begin in earnest soon...

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

I bought a Snap-On branded reel trouble light at the liquidation outlet. The build quality looked decent, though this is a whored badge job and doesn't carry the usual Snap-On lifetime warrantee. Costco once carried these, it seems. The notable thing about this one is that the fluorescent light housing was broken in half! Snapped clean in half at the neck and the wires yanked out of the bulb socket, however it looked repairable. I overpaid, $30, but it really did look like it might be a nice light once repaired, and the cord reel was metal and looked sturdy. I've wanted a second reel light for the new garage for some time, to match (sort-of) the one I've had in the old garage for years. (I later found that those lights were on clearance for $20 at Costco at one point, so I really did overpay!)

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

I tested the Snap-On light's cord, it had power, so I took apart the broken light and began gluing it back together. I used JB Weld epoxy and some spring clamps to hold the pieces in position while the glue cured. There wouldn't be any real strength to this repair at this point, but it's a start. I took particular care to make sure no glue got into the mating flanges of the housing halves where it would interfere with reassembly.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

I took the Snap-On light's glued housing and fashioned some metal spring clips (out of an old MB windshield wiper blade spine, they look a little like box staples) that pinched the housing pieces back together, bridging the glued breaks. These are very stiff and bite into plastic bosses in the moldings. I then used JB Weld epoxy to pot these six clips in position. This should provide some strength to the repair. I also took apart the fluorescent light socket, removing the broken spring clip connections to the bulb. I soldered those back together and put the socket back together, then tested the loose light guts. Worked great. We're almost there!

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Now that the glue had cured enough to survive handling I reassembled the Snap-On trouble light. It went together easily, and worked. I put it out in the garage and hung it near the door, so it could also be used on a car parked outside that bay. At that point I found, though, that the cord reel is intermittent and only supplies power in some positions. Great. I left the light on for a couple of days to finish the glue cure, since it was so cold outside. (Below freezing.) The light is a nice one, anyway, and will also work on the end of any regular single-outlet extension cord.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

I used the repaired trouble light to see what I was doing out in the cold and dark on the Chicken Wagon. (On the end of an extension cord, its troublesome reel cord doesn't reach to where the car is normally parked.) Worked great.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

We finally finished burning the jumble pile and started on the first real stack of firewood. If we count the jumble as two stacks' worth, this makes number three (of nine). Not a bad start, though temperatures have been down into the teens lately.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Bought an Ariens ST824 snowblower at auction today, from a row of nine consigned from some institution or another. $150. Model 924050, Serial 075104. Made somewhere between 1980–1991.

Needs some TLC, last servicing marked on it was 2007. It had compression, and oil, but no fuel. We cranked it over with the plug-in electric starter and it seemed OK. I pulled the plug and found that it had spark once you unplugged the key ignition switch (for which there was no key, I'll probably replace it with a weatherproof toggle), so I shot in some ether and put the plug back. It fired for a moment, so I think the engine will be OK. The auger turns, but I'm not sure about the state of the 5-speed transmission. It needs some metal straightening up front, and some orange paint.

I hit the Ariens site and downloaded Owner's, Service, and Parts manuals, the Owner's manual also has a Servicing section, which is good because the Service manual can only be opened on a much newer Acrobat than the one on the machine I normally use. I also asked them how old it is. They replied back quickly that it was made 8/20/1986.

A resource.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

I tipped the blower up on its nose and removed the access panel. The inside looks well-greased and in good condition, though the friction wheel is definitely worn. One of the drive chains had dropped off, but I found its master link parts stuck to the cover with grease. It should be repairable. The differential lock pin is very stiff, it could use some oiling. So far, so good! Can't leave the blower up on its nose too long or all the crankcase oil will drip out of the filler spout, it doesn't seal perfectly.

I bought rattle-can paint at the hardware store. Primer, orange, and black.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

I used a piece of wire to snake the high-speed chain back around its sprockets, and re-pinned it with the master link. Looks good. I made sure to put the clip on in the 'correct' direction. I then started wire-brushing rust and paint flakes off of the scoop.

I printed out the Servicing section of the Owner's manual.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Since I had the Chicken Wagon out of the garage for welding I took advantage of the vacancy and put the snowblower in. I took off the scoop, following the directions, and took it all apart. (Tip up on nose and remove the four bolts and then the bottom plate. While I was there I loosened the idler sprocket and tensioned the chains properly. I put it back down on its wheels then removed the belt cover and detached the blower belt. I removed the two heavy bolts that secure the scoop to the tractor, then tipped the tractor back onto its handles, then lifted the scoop off of the hook rod. I removed the auger/gearbox/impeller by removing the side plates and the plate at the impeller, nine nuts. The auger assembly then just pulled out, though not without some difficulty due to the deformed scoop sides. I removed the scraper and shoes while I was at it.)

First up was some anvil work to straighten out the scoop, the lips of the scoop were bent back and out yet the side planes were, overall, pushed in. Weird. There was a crack forming where the barrel joined the scoop, so I welded that shut, and ground the beads down some. I wire-brushed the scoop and its parts, washed them with TSP, then dried them and started painting with primer. I hung them all from a heavy wire in the garage to keep them off the floor, and turned on the heater in the garage.

I removed one of the augers from its shaft, you have to drive out a roll pin. I then straightened the bent tips on the anvil, then wire-brushed off all the rust. It wasn't greasy, so I just started painting it. I left the other auger on its shaft for reference, no real reason not to do them sequentially. The gearbox seems good.

This Ariens is infinitely better constructed than the Gilson snowblower I've been fighting for years. Solid.

Sunday, February 12, 2012

More paint. The orange is not covering nearly so well as the black.

The nice ash bucket Jill got me a few years ago was falling apart, the ears where the handle's bail attached were merely spot-welded onto the body, one spot each! I scraped paint off with a jackknife and used the spot welder to reattach that ear, two spots on the still-intact flap and four on the flap that fell off.

Broke into the next stack (#6) of firewood today. (Five more to go!)

Monday, February 13, 2012

I brushed off the impeller and gave it a coat of primer. I was out of orange paint so the scoop didn't get another coat.

I bought another can of orange paint today, and put some on when I got home at night.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

More paint. Just about time to start putting it back together again.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

The main toilet flapper broke. Again. The plug is in great shape but its rubbery plastic attachment strap broke off. I'd first used a screw through it, it rusted away. I then used a galvanized roofing nail, it rusted away. Today's attempt is a piece of bent 10-ga copper wire.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

I put the one auger back on the snowblower, I had to relieve the shaft a bit with a file. I then took off the other auger, its roll pin was a beast. Once I got it off I wire-brushed it, straightened the bent tips on the anvil, and primed it. I emptied the second can of orange paint on the scoop, I think I'll get one more.

...After work I bought more orange paint, and when I got home I put another coat on the accessible parts of the scoop. The auger got its first coat of black.

Thursday, February 23, 2012

The garbage can's plastic lid was all broken and caved in. You can't get just a replacement lid and the can itself is just fine, and expensive enough that I don't want to get another one just because the lid is compromised. I used duct tape to tack it back into shape and Shoe Goo to fix all the cracks. Once the glue on the top had set up I used duct tape to cover it all, as Shoe Goo is not UV-resistant, and turned it over and beaded the cracks on the bottom too. I used more glue than I'd have liked but it seems solid now, and should hold up for some time. Half a tube of glue is still a lot cheaper than a new can.

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Recently we've been having Spring-like coatless weather, but today a storm hit. Sideways snow, etc., a truly miserable day. It was fairly wet snow, though, and we got maybe 6" of the stuff, I figured maybe it was time I finished putting the snowblower back together. It went well enough, but I did break off one bolt that holds a bearing collar together. I left off the scraper because of the gravel driveway; the shoes are down all the way and I don't want any scraping, in fact. I put in some oil and gas, and it started readily with the electric starter. The engine RPM seemed a bit low, but it otherwise worked pretty well. The drive was reluctant to go at first but as it warmed up it worked well enough. The differential and tire chains meant that it in fact worked very well for me, unlike my experiences with the Gilson. I got the driveway cleared, this one did more for me today than the Gilson ever did. I threw a lot of rocks in spite of my care, and the new paint on the chute got pretty scratched up. Oh well, practice will no doubt help that get better. The lack of knobs on the primary controls was not much of an issue.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

More snow. The snowblower started on the first pull, and cleared the driveway again without complaint. Nice.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Broke into another (#5, a short one) firewood stack today. We've just finished the second load of maple we acquired, and are now into the half-rotted stuff we got between the two hardwood loads, from the neighbors. If lucky we won't have to dip into the rest of the maple before it warms up.

Friday, April 20, 2012

My Norelco Speedshaver (double-header) was crapping out again. It needed new brushes, and one of the E-clips retaining the motor shaft's spring retainer had broken. I had an extra brush that I'd made the last time, so that was OK. I tried taking a spare clip from one of the broken parts shavers, but that clip broke too. I couldn't find my pack of Harbor Freight E-clips, so I ended up wedging a split lockwasher over the post and gluing it into place. Tacky, but seems to have worked.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

The water pump has again been short-cycling for quite some time now, winter was not a good time to go take care of that. (I get wet, every time.) Seems to need it every six months? The procedure is now different than last time, because yesterday I stopped by Harbor Freight and bought a cheap lightweight 1/3 HP oilless air compressor and a hose and fitting kit, both on sale, and a 1/4" ball valve (about $85 for all), and today I installed it. This new compressor lives in the pumphouse permanently, and though it's really underpowered it was cheap, and it's not like you have to stand there and watch it work. (It's also oilless, which I suppose is nice since this is our drinking water supply, after all. My original plan had been to resurrect my old 'siezed' HF compressor for this job, but when I finally opened it up I found the integrated motor fried and the compressor intact. Scrap, in other words.) I replaced the Schrader valve fitting at the pressure switch with a ball valve and a male air coupling, and rigged out the hose and comressor with suitable fittings. Now it only takes me about 20 seconds to get air going into the tank rather than 20 minutes. Much faster, and I don't get wet since I only open the ball valve after everything's coupled up and the pressure is off the tank.

Details: I fire up the little oilless air compressor and couple it to the tank's fitting with the coily yellow hose. I turn off the pumps and open the yard hydrant to remove water pressure. Once the pressure is down to a dribble I open the ball valve on the pressure switch pipe, letting in the air. Once air starts coming out the yard hydrant I close the valve, turn off the compressor, turn on the pumps, and put the hose back away 'til next time. Because the tank pressure is then below the safety threshhold I have to hold the pump switch on manually while the pressure builds. I use a shelf bracket as a wrench, it takes a lot of strain off my fingers, since pressure takes awhile to build sufficiently to reach the automatic operation point.

Friday, May 18, 2012

The front screen door (wooden) was sagging a bit and hanging up. I bought a small turnbuckle today and some screw eyes, and screwed the eyes in the verticals in the center 'pane', diagonally oriented so that tension would lift the low side up to eliminate the drag. I used heavy wire to tie the turnbuckle into the center, then tensioned it. Works great! It's adjustable, too, to adapt to future warping, and the wire is thin and isn't too obtrusive.

Friday, June 1, 2012

Yesterday I took apart the broken front-yard frost-free hose bib, first using the dedicated shutoff valve in the pink room's closet. (There was a burst of stem leakage when I first closed it, but it tapered off.) The stinger came right out with two pipe wrenches, and rather than the broken-up washer that I expected I found that the long 3/8" brass tube that connects the handle assembly to the valve was split and chunks were falling off. Oh. Yesterday while Daniel was at soccer I checked at Ace, and they didn't have any repair parts for such things. Today I hit Peters' Hardware and Bill the Fauceteer, both places with a reputation for service and/or odd parts. Apparently, however, there are no parts for such things, they are not standardized and all the manufacturers expect you to replace the entire faucet. Nice, except for the fact that to do so you have to tear into the walls! Time for Plan B: make a new tube. It had been suggested that House of Hose might have such things, but all they had was a thick-wall stainless steel tubing into which the pieces wouldn't quite fit. No matter, I can drill it out a bit at the ends. I had them cut me a 13" length, it was about $4. At work I checked the galvanic potential difference between brass and stainless steel, and it was less than the 0.15 V difference that is generally thought to mark the onset of significant galvanic erosion. Once home I checked the length and it was a bit long, so I ground off a little. I then used a drill to ream out a half inch or so at the ends in order that the brass plugs of the operating mechanism would slide in easily, and in fact a bit loosely. (They're supposed to be able to wobble a bit.) These brass plugs have grooves in them into which the ends of the original tube had been crimped. I pinned one cold chisel into a vise and had Daniel hold the tube and an end in place over the chisel, then I used another chisel and the BFH to tap firmly over the groove in order to stake the tube to the end. We did this twice, once for each end. When finished the ends were secure, but still able to move. While I had bought a new washer, the screw that holds the old washer in had rusted and was falling apart, so I did not replace it. The old washer wasn't that bad, so I'll just stand pat for now. (I can afford to waste the 45 cents I paid for it at Peters'!) I used a bit of anti-sieze in the brass threads of the valve mechanism, and on the handle's stem. The rubber washer at the outside was pretty chewed, but looked reusable. I put it back together and it operated very smoothly, no more squeaking or crunching. I turned on the water and it worked perfectly!

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

The Costco (return) stainless steel gas grill's cast-iron burners have been rotting away, a feat that I'd somehow thought was impossible due to the heaviness of the burners, and the main reason I'd bought the thing in the first place. Apparently they're not as durable as I'd thought, and naturally enough Costco is not a servicing entity. Oops? Anyway, I did some surfing and it appears that the maker is Dynamic Cooking Systems (DCS), and their #12022 16" burner (for 27" grills) is the part, replaced by #22701. I ordered two from bbqparts.com, plus replacement electrode boxes. $113.91 all told, we'll see if this buys us another ten years or so. (Apparently it is cast brass/bronze, or cast stainless steel, that is the really good stuff. Maybe next time.)

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

The grill parts came today, I started soaking the retaining wingnuts in penetrant. They're stuck!

Thursday, July 19, 2012

I replaced all the grill parts. Not as hard as I'd feared. The castings are a little different than the original, the standoffs for the stainless steel heat spreader plates moved on one end so they don't engage the plates properly. No big deal, mostly a cosmetic issue. I used anti-seize on the wingnuts, which also don't engage fully due to casting changes. Unless I plan to barbecue in a zero-G environment this won't be a problem!

Monday, August 6, 2012

I finally replaced the burnt-out Christmas light in the bedroom, with one from a scrap string I found in the garage. Close enough in voltage and color.

Thursday, August 9, 2012

We noticed some tent caterpillars getting established in the shorter new trees along the driveway. (In years past, in the taller more established trees where I couldn't get up to the nests with anything I just shot the nests/branches off with a shotgun. I hated doing that, but didn't want them to spread.) These I could reach with a ladder, so I used spray Diazinon to stun them, picked off the nests with a stick for stomping by Daniel, then sprayed again and picked off any leaves that had wigglers on them for the same treatment. There were four nests, none too large yet.

Saturday, September 15, 2012

This spring I had collected two full Douglas fir trees that a friend had scored for me, from the backyard of a house in town. They'd hired a tree service to take down backyard threats, but due to the terrain they could not get machinery into the yard. To save money they'd skipped the healthy surcharge to remove the wood. The (large!) rounds had to be rolled uphill by hand to the truck. We got three full pickup-loads, in three days. Jill & Daniel helped us the first day, Daniel only the second, and the third day it was just us. Very good wood, but will it be enough? I'd stacked it into three rows of rounds to dry over the summer.

We split the first (of three) row of rounds and stacked half of it.

Sunday, September 16, 2012

We finished stacking the first split batch, which came out to just about one short stack in the shed. We then split half a row of rounds and stacked it.

Monday, September 17, 2012

We split half a row of rounds and stacked it. Two rows of rounds down, and the shed's sure not filling very fast! It's amazing how much wood one of those shed stacks can hold. (When filling. When burning they seem to evaporate pretty quickly!)

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

After work we split another half row of rounds and stacked it. The wood's evaporating, but the shed doesn't seem to be filling very fast!

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Finished splitting and stacking the wood we had. About 7-1/3 stacks in the shed, a little light. Sigh.

Friday, September 21, 2012

My friend coughed up another load of miscellaneous wood for us, a short pickup load's worth. It was fairly far, and the wood was more sticks than I'd hoped, and the rounds were partially decomposed. Oh well, it's worth having I suppose.

Saturday, September 22, 2012

I started splitting the wood, but ran out of gas in the splitter before I got too far.

Sunday, September 23, 2012

More gas in hand I finished splitting everything.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

We finished putting away the last of the wood and bark, and cleaned up the area. We've got about eight full stacks' worth, plus the sticks and bark.

Monday, October 1, 2012

No water! Jill was watering a tree with the big hydrant and left it on for quite awhile, all the way. Oops. I think she just ran us out and there's no other problem. I did notice that the pumphouse is wet under the pressure tank, this may be its last season. The replacement needs to have a bladder, the original air replenishment mechanism can no longer work due to the reconfiguration of the well system with the cistern.

Sunday, October 7, 2012

The outdoor cat house lid has been broken for awhile, the Kyb automotive shock absorbers that cushioned the heavy lid had broken out of their wooden upper supports so the lid could drop, and also put excessive stress on the Pugeot hood strut that holds the lid up. It was time to reconstruct the upper mounts. The wooden sockets were inadequate, so I drilled out the shocks' rubber bushings so that the metal pins could rotate easily. I then installed a new 2×4 upper mount board, drilled 1.5" holes to take the upper shock ends, and squared 1" slots in those holes with a big chisel. Washered screws then hold the shock pins to the board, with the shocks nestled into their rectangular slots, so the shocks can swing easily in the board yet not come out. I then screwed the board to the lid, placed (fore/aft) so that the shocks' resistance lets the lid fall at a slow but steady rate, and placed (left/right) so that the board doesn't hang up on the sides as it closes. That took a bit of fiddling. I then re-secured the hood strut, using a piece of drilled scrap metal to spread the stress out among three screws instead of the one that was in a now badly hogged-out hole. (The other mount screw was still good.) Everything is much tighter and more secure, it should be good for some time now.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

When the pumphouse was rewired to eliminate its separate meter the cable drop hole into it had been opened up. Birds found it, and nested inside the insulation within all summer. Oops. They'd torn it down all over the place inside, so I spent a lovely hour nailing up lath strips to hold it back in place. I also cut off the remains of the old cable feed and nailed a plank over the hole. That should fend off this problem in future. With any luck the insulation will again do its job and help prevent freeze-up this winter.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

The last few days we've been drying prunes, the neighbors up the hill had a bumper crop (as normal, except for the last two really bad years) again, and we came away with about 5 buckets full. Split, pitted, and placed in the food drier it takes about 1.5 days to dry a full load, nine trays, a bucket and a half of raw fruit, resulting in three full 40-oz cashew tubs' worth of dried. This is the third load, and probably the last we'll get.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Finished hanging a shelf in the laundry room today. Jill had bought two wooden shelf brackets and a short MDF plank, and four coathooks. Instant 'kit'... from her perspective! At least she'd had a place picked out. After ascertaining just where/how she wanted it I screwed the two brackets into the studs and nailed on the plank. That was fairly easy, but the coathooks wouldn't have anything secure to hang on to. I scared up a piece of oak pallet wood and cut it to fit between the wooden shelf brackets. I sanded it smooth, then drilled two holes in the center to tie into the stud the shelf straddles and two on each end to attach to the shelf brackets, countersunk all six holes, then screwed the board to the shelf brackets. I cut another little piece of the oak to go behind the center of the board to fill the space and give it something to cinch down on, then screwed it securely to the center stud using long stainless-steel deck screws. (The ends of the board were held to the bracket with drywall screws.) Perfect! And very secure...and, as I got out a coathook to start attaching those, very wrong! I should have looked at the hooks, they're the tall hat/coat combination hooks and ran into the shelf with the board where I'd placed it. Oops. I had to dismount the board and move it down considerably, which left all the first set of holes to look at. Ugly. Other than that the mistake was fairly easy to correct. I then spaced the four hooks evenly on the board and drilled their mounting holes, then attached them. Very secure; oak is nice stuff.

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

The last few days it has finally cooled off enough that we've been building fires. (We've had the furnace on, at 60 °F, for a couple of weeks now. Our policy is that if you want it warmer than that then build a fire.) The heating season starts! We've got a lot of bark and sticks, those work well in the early days and I'm hoping to reduce or eliminate the backlog of this junk before the real cold sets in.

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Today the last of the bark backlog (leftover from years past) went into the maw of the stove. That stuff is a real PITA. We've burned some of the sticks, but haven't really dug into them yet. That'll start now, and just in time too: we had our first snow today.

Saturday, November 24, 2012

The sprinkler controller (troll) also runs the Christmas lighting, and the post-Thanksgiving part of November has always been a problem. Thanksgiving, you see, is always the fourth Thursday in November, and that's not something that cron is capable of finding on its own. I refuse to have the lights on before Thanksgiving is over, so the lights have always been a semi-manual proposition before December. Today I finally rectified this.

I just have cron start a new postturkey script every day in November. This script figures out if the day number is greater than the turkey day number, and if so goes on to run the lights. So, cron gets told:

00 15 * Nov * at now + 1 minute 2>/dev/null%postturkey sunset deckthehalls 2330
00 15 * Dec-Jan * at now + 1 minute 2>/dev/null%sunset deckthehalls 2330
which runs the lights in January and December, and the guts of the new postturkey script used in November is:
tday=`cal | sed 1,2d | cut -c 13-14 | sed "/  /d" | sed -n 4p`
day=`date +%d`
[ $day -gt $tday ] && exec $@
This all says that every day at 3 PM (while it's still light out, so the sunset script, which delays a command until dusk on that particular day, will work) from the day after Thankgiving through January 31, run the Christmas lights from dusk until 11:30 PM. The new script just runs the old cal calendar utility and extracts the Thursday column of data, and takes the fourth non-blank line. If 'today' is greater than this number go on to start the lights at dusk, turning them off at 11:30. I should have done this years ago.

Sunday, November 25, 2012

The last of the sticks and bark went today. We made it a month on that crap!

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Got another pickup load of sticks and crap from my 'pusher', these from a yard tree takedown. (These for next year, of course.)

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

My grandmother's old silver plate pattern that I like so much is a 1926 pattern from 1847 Rogers Bros.: Argosy. Wouldn't mind having some more of that, for daily use.

Saturday, December 8, 2012

Jill has been borrowing a Bass Clarinet from the community college, since they have a halfway decent one they aren't using, and she doesn't. (She plays it in the Community Band, so that fee is her 'rental', in spite of the fact that she has it so that she can play it in pit orchestras.) Anyway, the leather handle on the case, which appears to be a buckle-on replacement, has torn loose and there is a shoestring laced through the D rings instead. Jill hates the shoelace. (I don't blame her.) I took a look at the torn handle, and decided that perhaps it can be repaired. I removed it and used Shoe Goo to glue the torn tab back into the handle body, and some cyanoacrylate glue to close up some of the cracks in the main part of the tab. Once that sets up I'll use neatsfoot oil on the rest of the leather to try to keep it from drying and cracking further, we'll see if this works.

Jill's mother sends us, on occasion, various light-up Christmas knick-knackery. (She has a bit of a Hallmark addiction.) One, a snowy village model, didn't light up this year when plugged in. I had a look, it uses a little wall-wart, labeled 24VAC 0.25A. I had a closer look, and the hatch on the bottom of the unit opens to reveal a halogen reflector lamp firing through a color wheel stuck on the end of a low-speed synchronous motor. The lamp is a 12V 10W unit, and there is a sticker in there warning to use only that rating of lamp. Very interesting, the wall wart was being asked to supply 2× its rated power, quite deliberately! No wonder it burned out (I checked, I cut it open and its transformer's primary was open), and there was no way it could have maintained its rated voltage under load, which explains why the bulb didn't burn out after a few seconds of operation. This was definitely the mated wall-wart, it has an odd custom plug between the wart and the unit so it couldn't have gotten mixed up when in storage. I guess the Chinese (?) engineers (?) at Hallmark (?) are trying to burn down the USA, one house at a time.

I dug around in the junk pile and found a 12VAC 0.85A wall wart off of which I had already stolen the cord and connector. (I do that kind of thing, loose wall warts are cheap at the thrift stores.) It is twice the physical size of the deader, there's a good chance it'll survive just fine, though it is slightly overloaded by rating. I dug the connector out of the deader and soldered it to the pigtail coming out of the scavenged wart, and wrapped the joint in electrical tape. When plugged in the snowy village model turns out to be a nightmare in fiber optics, but otherwise seems happy now.

The same source has gifted us with a little battery-operated string of LED Christmas lights, suitable for festive holiday beehive hairdos or whatever, and it didn't work right out of the box. I popped open the plastic shell and had a look. You know, it is customary for a power switch to have at least two wires going to it! There was a loose wire floating around inside which obviously had pulled out of the switch after a thoroughly inadequate soldering job. That was easy to correct, and the lights worked after that. As Daniel has used it to decorate the Hallmark ghetto I needed to scare up a suitable 4–5VDC wall-wart so that we don't burn through the batteries like they're free. I looked in the junk box and found the first wall wart I had made for my Yamaha tuner; it still worked and put out just about the right voltage. I cut the cord off of a 15¢ thrift-shop cigarette lighter power cord, whose plug fit the jack, and joined this all together. It even works, I put the batteries back in the battery pile, no sense wasting them.

I'm happy. An entire morning of successful R&R (Repair & Refit? Rest & Recreation? Why not both!) for no outlay, supplied entirely from the junk box and shop supplies. (Glue, neatsfoot oil, tape, cable ties, etc.)

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Just used up the last of the wood from that final pickup load of sticks and crap.

Went out with Daniel to get the Christmas tree today. He wanted to cut it down, but it was just taking too long so I finished it. Maybe next year.

Saturday, December 22, 2012

It's hard to estimate, but I'd say that we've tapped into our second stack of wood in the shed. (Estimation difficult because you have to leave part of the prior stack to stand upon to reach the top of the next [tall] stack.) This first (extra-short) stack thus lasted about two weeks.

Monday, January 28, 2013

The last time I used the snowblower it started fading, and the choke had to be on more and more in order to run. I suspected carburetor clogging, and the next time I tried to use it it would not start except on ether, which corroborated this opinion. Today it snowed again, so I finally removed the carburetor and cleaned it. It wasn't very dirty but it doesn't take much. I put it back and it ran well. (You don't really need to remove these kinds of carburetors in order to clean them, but I usually do.) I turned up the RPM a bit, I think it was low, and tinkered with the mixture screw until it seemed to run OK. It may need some final dialing in, but it was working pretty well and I cleaned a substantial chunk of driveway. (The rubber drive wheel needs some attention.)

Monday, February 11, 2013

When our second piano came here we needed to remove the kitchen slider door for access. It's been squeaking and stiff, and generally a PITA lately, so I wasn't looking forward to it. (This is not behavior I welcomed in an expensive Pella door.) Instructions on the web were vague.

In fact, it's easy. There are two access holes at the bottom edges, into which a long Philips screwdriver is placed. These screws lower the jacks that the rollers are on, and you can then lift the door and swing the bottom edge out (having first removed the retaining guide) and remove the door.

The problem was that one of the access holes in the aluminum cladding was facing wood, not a hole! The end piece had apparently slid out of position, rising up, of all things, and thus interfering with the upper track. (Hence the squeaking and stiffness.) I had to dig and chew my way in with the screwdriver in order to get access to the jack screw. At that point everything went smoothly.

I did make one big mistake: I'd leaned the door back into the opening to cut the draft, and when I went out the front door to get a tool I heard a huge echoing "BANG!" from behind the house. Oops. The draft from the front door blew out the panel and it fell flat onto the deck! Fortunately I had moved everything out of the way, and I happened to have the handle removed (unnecessarily, as it turns out) so it was able to land flat. (And it missed the cats.) It was a miracle but nothing was broken, not even the glass.

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

I pulled the inside rubber weatherstrip from the sliding door, and from there the out-of-place edge cladding could then be pried out gently and away from the door on one edge. It could then slide, so I shifted it into place and I used a hammer and pliers to reshape the bent bits at the top, and the damage from the screwdriver intrusion. Then I put back the weatherstrip, which unfortunately got deformed in the middle. A heat gun helped put it back into shape, sort of, but it looks crappy. I'm sure we can get another one if we decide to. I got the door back on track and jacked into place, but ran out of time to finish the job.

Also, today, I glued the bottom metal disk back onto the ultrasonic puck that goes in the blue-glass decorative humidifier. We like it a lot, with its bowl of fog effect, and it's also practical. It doesn't look like the glue needs to be waterproof or anything, so I just used cyanoacrylate glue. It's fast and easy.

Thursday, February 14, 2013

I put the handle back on the door and adjusted the height of the rollers with the screwdriver, we'll see if it behaves itself. My theory as to why that edge strip had shifted and started scraping is that the door was experiencing differential thermal expansion: as the daily sun swept from the top down, with shade following later in the same order, the top expanded slightly, pushing against the colder bottom of the strip, and most especially its colder, grippier seal material, and thus moved ever so slightly upwards. As shade then crept down from the top it cooled and 'gripped' there first, then as the rest of the strip cooled it was pulled upwards ever so slightly. Repeat daily over a period of years and you can account for the half an inch the strip had moved, against gravity.

To combat this (or whatever it was that did cause the shift) I drove a screw into the edge of the strip, into the wood interior of the door. With any luck that will pin it in place. I put bits of duct tape over the screwdriver access holes in the door, since the plastic plugs had degraded and powdered. That should help keep bugs and dirt out of the works.

Sunday, March 24, 2013

We've tapped the last stack of firewood we put in last Summer, which is both short and partially two-year-old maple. But it's starting to warm up, too.

Monday, April 22, 2013

A couple of days ago I clumsily traumatized the strand of Christmas lights I'd hastily hung as temporary welcoming wedding decor. Turns out I darkened half the string, and after using my handy-dandy LIGHTKeeper Pro (a miraculous tool!) I found that I'd fragged two more bulbs. Bummer. In twelve years of daily use we've only lost bulbs to trauma, none of them have burned out. Running on a Variac dimmer really helps extend incandescent bulb life! I replaced them with some used bulbs from a scrap string.

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

I pulled all three bathroom exhaust fans and cleaned the bearings with brake cleaner, then relubricated with ATF. That and a wash of the covers and they're all good as new.

Friday, May 10, 2013

I re-aired the well's pressure tank as per the new procedure, no problems—it just takes a bit of time. I had thought the tank was leaking, but it was dry underneath this time so maybe not. This new de-waterlogging procedure is certainly easier than the old one!

Saturday, May 11, 2013

Yesterday I broke down and bought a new battery for the lawn mower at Costco, $38; today I installed it and mowed the lawn. Jump-starting it each time with one of the generator batteries was really getting old.

While out today I stopped by Lowes and bought electrical supplies for adding an outlet under the deck where we keep the lawn mower, also about $38 (we have wire already, I should only need a breaker). If I can get that in I stand a better chance of keeping the battery alive longer. I plan to add an outlet and an overhead light, I have a nice brass weatherproof fixture that was a thrift shop find. I should be able to run a circuit from the new box, under the crawlway and through the sill plate under the porch.

Thursday, May 16, 2013

A few days ago at the thrift shop I bought a vintage TI 1500 calculator, bagged with an SR-51A, $3 for the pair. I figured that I could put batteries in the old-looking 1500 and use it in a similar-vintage car for gas mileage calculations. Well, the thing uses two AA NiCd cells! They had leaked, but not too badly. I replaced them with new ones and it worked just fine. They're not intended to be easily replaced, you have to take apart the case, but that's not too hard. NiCd's inherently don't hold a charge all that long, I'd have to figure out how to charge them periodically while in the car. The stock charger is a 6VAC unit, and did not come with the calculator. Today I went to the thrift shop and bought a cigarette-lighter Game-boy adapter that had a 6 V output, and a different wall-wart that had a plug that looked like it would fit the calculator. (Well, it was a bit too small, but I was able to drill out the barrel and carve away excess plastic to get it to fit anyway.) I then removed the weirdo GB power cord and replaced it with the modified one, and got it working supplying 6 V. The calculator seems to take about 40 mA of charge, when off, which is low but probably good enough. The unit is ready to deploy in a car, I suppose. What a PITA, and another $5 of crap! The things I do to keep cool vintage gear running sometimes...

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Quite some time ago I'd picked up a thrift-shop (garage sale?) box of laminate wood flooring to use in Jill's office under the roller chair. Daniel and I tried to install it today. Box said 9 pieces, and that's what I'd counted when I bought it. Turns out, however, that it was three different types! They don't even lock together. We tried to make a floor out of it anyway, it seems to work OK but doesn't look anything like as nice as I'd hoped. We'll see.

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Firewood gathering begins. (Two seasons late.) Yesterday I cut up the sticks and pieces that had been given to me earlier this year. I managed to break the starter rope, and had to go to town to get more. $1. Today we got the truck going and went into the woods. I needed to get farther into that piece than ever before, so I cut one small tree to ease access, then we were able to get near the two standing dead that I had targeted. We got them cut up and into the truck.

Monday, September 9, 2013

I fired up the splitter, and we split all the dry stuff that I cut up Saturday, and all three trees from yesterday. No stacking, yet.

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Stacking this AM. Stack #5 (short) is now restored to glory, and #6 has been started. Unfortunately all of the two dry trees I cut are in already, and the shed's still more than half empty. (The live tree I cut down is too wet for use this year, and will be stacked outside.) After breakfast and then stacking all the dry wood, #6 is only about half-full.


...In the PM we cut up some fallen dead trees that were up off the ground, they're dry enough and intact enough to be worth processing.

Thursday, September 12, 2013

More standing (and fallen) dead trees yesterday and today. There's a surprising amount of still-usable wood in that neglected corner of our woodlot, and it's dry and ready to burn now. Which is good, 'cause we're about out of time for the gathering of burnables. Weather's heating up again, into the low 90's today, but the woods are still damp enough from the not-too-long-ago rains that there's no fire danger from chainsawing. Looks like we'll end up with about 7 stacks this year, two of them shorter than normal.

Friday, September 20, 2013

A couple of days ago Jill complained that the lamp in the microwave, an Amana RR-6W from about 1976, was out. I pulled out the interior baffle only to find that the lamp's not accessible from inside, but the thing was so gross and greasy that I tore into it cleaning it. The door had come apart once and had been glued together, before my time, and it was looking very nasty, and the glue was failing. I tore all that apart, and drilled out the broken-off plastic post sites and put nylon screws in instead of the glue. (This plastic post construction is the only dodgy part about the design. The materials are all top-notch, other than these posts, a mechanically weak point, all the plastic is still in near-perfect condition.) It took a lot of time to get things cleaned up and put back together, but it looked more like new after that other than the nylon screw heads that now show inside the door. The window, in particular, now looked clean. Oh, and a new 25W bulb was about $4 at the hardware store.

She'd complained that the oven was 'weak', but I tested it. Line power was about 1450W, normal I hear, and a water heating test said about 700W, which is correct. (Heat 1L of water for 33 seconds, the temperature rise in °F times 100 is the effective wattage.) So it's working as well as it did new, I think, and it's built like a brick s***house. A pleasure to work on, almost. Good thing it's all OK, a replacement magnetron is no longer available.

Saturday, September 21, 2013

Harvested the last of the usable dead wood I could find today, another three smallish trees. Got it split and in the shed, along with the remainder of the sticks (prunings, really), and got the tools put away. A generous estimate is six stacks, total. Enough, I'd imagine, but just barely.

While I was at it I cleaned the chimney, it wasn't too bad but it was definitely time. Guess we're ready for the heating season, as much as we'll ever be, whenever it should come along.

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

We've been burning awhile now, and we just put in the last of the sticks. The next loads will be the standing dead we harvested.

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Jill asked me to help out a friend of hers, the peg on his bass clarinet doesn't extend far enough and he doesn't like the idea of a longer peg. He thought a block of wood could be used on the floor. I didn't have any suitable blocks of wood. I did, however, have some firewood-length chunks of black walnut, so I cut a length off of one and sanded the ends smooth, removed the bark, and drilled a 1" hole about a half inch deep into the center with a Forstner bit. The result is quite rustic, there are some splits, yet it is nonetheless both attractive and functional. He tried it out and suggested shortening it about an inch or so, otherwise he was quite happy with it. I cut it down and glued some sheet cork to the bottom, and then rubbed on an oil finish. It looks nice, and should work well.

Jill has been having some pain in her right thumb, some kind of repetetive stress injury due to all her recent instrumental playing. A neck strap gives her neck pain, and she doesn't like using one on her double reeds anyway. There once was a handly little device called a FHRED, an adjustable stick that clamped onto an oboe's neck strap ring and propped against a chair seat. She has managed to borrow one and finds that it works well for her. Unfortunately they just aren't for sale anymore, and apparently nobody who has one and needed it is willing to part with theirs. I took some photographs of the borrowed FHRED before she had to return it, and today at the hardware store I bought some telescoping brass tubing and some other miscellaneous hardware with which to fabricate one. We shall see if I can do this. The tricky part will be making the clip. FHRED's was an elegant little spring-loaded brass paperclip affair in a block milled out of strong plastic. (Delrin?) I'm going to try using grenadilla wood, my only fear is that it will be brittle enough that it will break if dropped. On the other hand, my envisioned design isn't quite as elegant as FHRED's, and will be easier to reproduce if it should break.

131K&S$1.891/4"0.014"12"Outer tube
130K&S$1.497/32"0.014"12"Slide rings
166K&S$1.993/16"12"Center rod
163K&S$1.293/32"12"Clip pin
$0.154-40nutThumb plate
¾"¼"1-¼"Clip body

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Today I finished the oboe prop. I think it came out fairly well. I felt unable to make a clip like the original, but I had an alternate, less-elegant attachment in mind. First I cut out the grenadilla to shape, cutting a notch in one end, then drilled a cross hole for the pin. I then spent some time sanding it to shape so that the clip would fit on the oboe and have the desired range of motion. (I used the Laubin as a model.) I then drilled a second cross hole midway in the block. I then took the 3/32" rod and bent it twice and cut it off, with one leg just long enough to go through the block, and a second leg much longer, bent to slide into the two holes in the block. It looks something like this:
I then threaded the long end 4-40. With the pin(s) in the block, the #3 compression spring on the long end, and a 4-40 brass nut on the end of that you have a sliding pin assembly that you press on the spring-loaded nut to slide the operating pin through the jaws enough to release the oboe. I used a bit of Lock-tite on the nut to make sure it didn't come off. The spring is fully compressed at about the point where the pin is fully in its release position. The spring-loaded bit is much more obtrusive than on the original, and far more vulnerable to damage, but it's easier to fabricate. The pin/block assembly looks like this, in closed and open positions:
          +-+ +-+                 +-+ +-+  
          ||| |||	          ||| |||  
          |======\	          |||_|======\ 
          ||||||| )	          |||||||     )
[]/=/=/=/========/	    []////===========/ 
          |||||||	          |||||||  
          |||O|||	          |||O|||  
          |||||||	          |||||||  
          +-----+  	          +-----+  
I then threaded the end of the main rod 10-32, then drilled a matching hole in the block and threaded it. I cut the rod to its 10" length, then cut the outer tube to its 8" length and cut two 3/8" slip rings from the middle-sized tube. After a bit of sanding to clean up the cut ends I then soldered one slip ring onto the non-threaded end of the rod, and the other into the top end of the tube. I soldered the 5/16" nut onto that same end, about 1/2" down from the end to allow clearance for easy operation of the thumbscrew. I then cleaned up the solder mess with a file, then drilled and tapped into one face of the big nut for the 8-32 brass thumbscrew. Just about done! I then slipped a length of black heat-shrink tubing over the outside of the tube and shrank it into place, and put a short piece on the short end too. I then assembled all the pieces. A dark purple wedge pencil eraser caps the end, giving it the grip it needs to not slide on your chair, and a bit of whimsy.

Jill said it didn't fit on the Loree, and it was true. The neckstrap ring on it is a bit larger in diameter than the Laubin's. I used a round file to deepen the notch a bit. It then fit, but wobbled a bit much for her taste because the file also opened up the width of the notch. I may need to make a new block, and do a much more careful fitting job as regards the notch dimensions. It needs to be movable for expressive playing, and so can't be tight, but not so loose as to allow the block to flop to the side. The shape of the notch may be important, it might need to have an X-shaped profile or something instead of a straight notch for best effect. (Allowing more motion in one axis than the other.) I might have to make another block. I have plenty of grenadilla, and it's not too hard to make the way I did it. The worst part will be getting the holes drilled to match the existing pin. We'll see.

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Just brought in the last of the first-burned stack of firewood, #7. It had been about a full short-stack. (In a tall-stack site.) We had a skiff of snow yesterday morning, it's definitely cooling off now! I also changed the batteries in the outdoor temperature sensor.

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Some thoughtful soul dumped an entire pickupload of trash half on the road and half on our property. Very Arlo Guthrie, the Sherrif's crew will come and pick it up, and try to see if they can identify whom to bill. It was done between 2:30 PM and 6:30 PM, between when Jill got home and when I did. They said they'd come out Monday to pick it up.

Saturday, November 9, 2013

A few weeks ago the main toilet plugged again, for the last time. I pulled it out. I found that the bolts were rusted away, the throne could rock and had shifted a bit, the wax seal was now partially occluding the pipe, and the floor was partially rotten. All not good. We've been mulling over our various options since, including a complete bathroom gut and remodel. (Jill's preference.) Certainly nobody likes the old harvest gold toilet, but it's a high-flow model and well-built, so I'm a bit conflicted about replacing it. (If its flushing problems can be blamed on its mounting issues.)

Time is passing though, and we're expecting company for the holidays. Sharing bathrooms is more stressful than one would like, and there's no way any kind of remodel could be done by when we'd want, not unless we rushed, and risked not getting what we'd really want yet paying full, or even expedited rates. Jill is away in Europe for ten days, so Daniel and I tackled the project aiming for a temporary solution to be done before she gets back. That will allow us to pursue a final solution at a natural pace. The damaged floor has dried in this time, at least, so temporary repairs are practical. (Good thing it wasn't particle board, or throne one would probably have gone visiting throne two by now!)

I peeled away linoleum from wherever the plywood floor was damaged, about a 2' circle was affected. I chipped away the remains of the rusted iron floor mount ring, leaving the plastic drain pipe poking through the plywood. Yesterday I'd bought a new ring, it fits the plastic fitting very nicely but may need a spacer underneath. I used the belt sander to remove the worst-rotted and scummy surface wood layer, what was underneath mostly doesn't look too bad. I'd also bought some wood hardener yesterday and I poured it liberally over the bad flooring, in several passes. It soaked in like water into sand at first, but as I was running out it started to look shiny on top as it dried, indicating some approach to the desired saturation point. There was some flashing protruding into the drain pipe where it had been glued, I used the Dremel and a burr to remove that while I was there. I vacuumed up the mess and left the fan on, door closed, to dry and air out.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

I cut out eight roughly 2–3" strips of ¼" flat scrap molding, with the ends mitered at 22½° angles so that it fit together as a round frame on the floor around the pipe fitting. I drilled every hole in the mounting ring that was provided for screws, ten of them, and screwed the ring down to the floor with #12 1-¾" brass screws. They seemed to 'bite' pretty well, so I'm not too worried about the state of the floor. Daniel and I then went outside and cleaned the old toilet bowl. There was a lot of crusted-on calcium, I ended up scraping it off with my antique carbon-steel butter knife universal tool and wiping things down with CLR. That was joyful. Daniel handled general scrubbing duties. I wasn't too worried about scratching or marring it, I don't think this fixture is going to be there all that much longer. Once it was sufficiently clean we carried it into the house, one on each side made the job easy. The wooden floor ring turned out to be too big to fit underneath the fixture, I'll need to trim off the excess.

Monday, November 11, 2013

I removed the excess wood with a Fein vibratory saw. It worked slick, and cut the soft wood like butter. Once that was trimmed away I then found that it wasn't just the wood that didn't fit underneath the fixture, the metal mounting ears on the ring interfered too. Oops. I removed all the screws and rotated the ring, and the wooden spacers, by 20° or so, enough to make the narrowest part of the ring match the narrowest part of the throne. I then re-drilled and put the screws back in. Bonehead! It seems to be OK now, the screws seemed to have plenty of 'bite' coming out and going back in, so the condition of the floor is still good. I set the throne down on the floor over the hole, with the T bolts coming up through the mounting holes in the bowl. It seems ready for mounting now.

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

We warmed the wax ring, stuck it to the bottom of the throne, and turned it over onto the drain. Daniel helped me lower it carefully straight down over the T bolts so that the ring wouldn't need to be shifted after touchdown. A little bit of twisting and pushing down and it was seated, and we bolted down the throne. I then put the new rubber gasket on the tank and bolted it back into place on the throne using the old bolts with new sealing washers. It's not as secure to the floor as I'd like, as you can rock it a little bit on one side, perhaps due to deformation of the floor, but it'll have to do and I don't see anything actually wrong. I connected up the water and let it fill, no apparent leaks. A couple of flushes and still no sign of problems.

"It's beginning to look a lot like toi-let!"

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

I ground the nasty corroded hardware off the oak toilet seat, pulled out the heavily rusted steel mounting screws, and knocked the ring apart as the glue was failing. It's pretty icky. As a punishment detail I set Daniel to sanding the wood, I did the first piece. I'll glue it back together and slap some sort of finish on it. I'd have bought a new one, but they're not that inexpensive, and given that we're just going to end up ripping it all out again fairly soon...

Friday, November 15, 2013

Yesterday I was going to start gluing the seat ring back together, and had bought some polyurethane to give it a good cleanable finish, but it turns out I didn't have any glue and already had a small can of finish. Doh! So today I swapped the surplus finish for more Gorilla glue, and clamped the first two pieces together. I can only do one at a time, as I only have one curved piece of wood that makes the thing work in the bar clamp, and it's not worth making more.

It is interesting that the 'old' can of finish, perfectly usable, was just about exactly half the price of the new one I returned.

Saturday, November 16, 2013

I finished gluing the seat ring back together, and carved off the excess that foamed out with a chisel, then used the stationary belt sander to dress the joints. I set it near the fire to finish curing.

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Jill's due back tomorrow, and since the power failed for six hours early yesterday I had to handle the clock in the bedroom anyway. (An old-school GE synchronous-motor classic, model 7294K made in Ashland Mass, metal guts.) Its dial light, an NE-2 I've replaced once already since I got it, is nearly black again and you can no longer read it at night, a condition which Jill hasn't appreciated. I dug it out of its nest and opened it up, and replaced the bulb again. It's not too hard. I put it back together and it's nicely visible in the dark again. This type of clock keeps perfect time. (The US power grid is designed and managed to do exactly that, in fact.) So long as the power doesn't fail!

I laid a couple of boards across the toilet bowl and covered them with newspaper, and painted a coat of polyurethane finish onto the two seat pieces. I hope it dries quickly, I only have today to get them finished and dry and mounted onto the toilet.

...All day drying and the wood was still sticky, so I put them in the oven at 200 °F on the backs of cookie sheets, and a few hours of that and they were barely tacky at all. I turned off the oven and let them cool in place. After I handled them a bit I decided a second coat was called for, so I did that and left them drying in the oven overnight.

Monday, November 18, 2013

Last day! I screwed the plastic hinges to the seats and put the assembly on the throne. Not quite centered, it turns out, but good enough. I then washed the muddy lid cover (weeks outside!) and set it aside to dry, then put away most of the tools. I kept out the vacuum, we're not really done but at least it looks (and presumably, works) like a bathroom now.

I wonder if a broken wax seal can leak air, breaking the siphon and contributing to our flushing problems? I guess we'll see.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

I screwed the over-the-toilet cabinet to the wall. It had been on stilts, but the thing was nasty pressboard and had gotten wet at the bottom, and the removals and all had been very hard on it. I screwed one of its leg braces to the wall (through the studs) as a perch, and used another one to clamp it through the back to the wall. I left the top strap on as well, it seems secure enough. It's a bit higher than before allowing better access to the tank, and it doesn't get in the way of servicing anymore, nor can it really get wet.

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Just brought in the last of the next stack of firewood, #6. It had been about a full short-stack. (In a tall-stack site.) It was 12°F this morning, we're in a cold snap.

Friday, December 6, 2013

...and getting colder, 9°F this morning.

Saturday, December 7, 2013

...and colder, 4°F this morning.

Saturday, January 4, 2014

Just cracked the next stack of firewood, #4. This is a tall stack, of two-year dried maple.

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

The last of the maple is now gone. I kept a few of the more interesting pieces, curly grain without any cracking, for potential woodworking projects. There is still some of the stack left, but it's not maple. It was 1°F this morning.

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Had to crack the next stack, #3. It was –2.5°F this morning, the coldest yet.

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